Search results

Okay... I'm not doubting you, but I have to double check what you're saying. This is how they SHOULD be: In what way were they backwards? Was the diaphragm not "nipple" up? Was the spring directly on the diaphragm instead of in the cup?

Because I'm a smart ass here, I'm just going to add this: It's not centrifugal, it's centripetal. Centripetal force is a force. Centrifugal "force" is not a force, but a feeling that results from centripetal force.

If the air dryer is venting down, then there's a valve there that can get stuck open. I think you just need to WD-40 it (that's a verb now!) and get it closing. Might be a good idea to service (replace) your air dryer. You can take it off, clean it, replace all the filters/cartridges, etc for...

Positive projects are nice. So the things you need to check: Wheel valve Wheel hub seals Quick release valves (3, 1 for each axle) Air lines 120psi going into the CTIS pneumatic controller. (If your water separator in the cab is in working order, I think you can check the pressure on the bottom...

Would a bad hub seal deflate all 6 tires?

If you air up the tires and disconnect the ctis controller before turning the truck on, do the tires stay inflated? I would check the 3 quick release valves. 1 on each rear axle and 1 just under the hood hinge. Also check the air dryer for leaks.

Rebuild thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?138637-5-Ton-Power-Steering-Assist-Cylinder-rebuild

I didn't take too many pictures at this point as I was covered in hydraulic fluid. It could have been motor oil though. Not sure. I'll need to do a full drain and refill soon. Plus replace the filter. Anyhow, remove the socket from the piston rod AND TAKE A PICTURE OR MARK WHERE IT WAS THREADED...

Like some, I recently found the power steering ram on the passenger side of the front axle of my M923A2 to be leaking. Time for a project! Here's why my seals failed: CARC paint is fairly abrasive. Having the seals rub on it just tore them up. Do yourself a favor and make sure the piston rod...

I'm working on a rebuild thread with pictures, part numbers, and TM references. I'll get it up as soon as I can.

9 threads seem to be the most common. Logically it should be fairly consistent.

The wording in the TM is very vague. What's supposed to happen with the travel adjustment is basically assuring that you've got even fluid on each side of the cylinder when the wheels are straight. That way you have full travel on the cylinder (so you don't lose any turning ability on one side...

So I have everything back in place and adjusted close to where it was. Looking at it, the purpose of the travel adjustment should be solely to prevent the piston from contacting the gland or the cylinder back wall when the wheels are turned. Straightening the wheels and measuring 25.5" from stud...

I have all the new seals installed. I'm finishing cleaning out the cylinder itself. I need to flush out rust-dust and metal shavings. Let me know if you need help. You'll also probably need 2 new felt pads and 2 new dust shields.

I got it on eBay. Just search for "M939 power steering repair kit"

Measuring stud to stud would be more exact. If the specs say 25.5" then I'll go with that. I guess the real question is how do I make sure the cylinder fills evenly? At dead ahead, the piston should be close to 50/50 in/out, with the adjustment end to get the final way there. Once hooked back up...

Well, my thought is how do you know what dead ahead is? I would think that 25.5" from stud to stud would be that. Plus there's no good was to measure that when the cylinder is on. I don't know too much about hydraulic systems, but I'm guessing as the cylinder fills back up, dead ahead would make...

I've got 7 or 8 railroad ties sitting in the back of mine. Just being lazy and not getting around to setting them in the yard. lol

Are they easier to read than when they're red?

One of the connections might have water in it. I need to go over my ABS and check for corrosion on the connectors.