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You can definitely see the difference between the old and new diaphragms. If your CTIS valve is leaking, replace the diaphragm first. There's not much that can actually break the valve body. You just need to check the center nut for corrosion. Also, the new spring was a bit longer, probably...

So the parts came in and I had the time to rebuild my wheel valve that wouldn't stay shut. I had taken the valve apart before and cleaned it, but it just wouldn't stay shut and when the CTIS stopped inflating, it immediately began deflating back to the QRV. Annoying to say the least. So here's...

Ditto on mine. I need to replace the air hoses, check the switches, and rebuild the motors. My driver side motor leaks air straight out into my face.

Where did you pick those up? I can think of a lot of uses for them. I want a couple sets!

That's a lotta mufflers. How much are you selling them for? I need 1.

I've been looking as well. $300+ for a military replacement just seems like highway robbery.

Just replaced my old mirrors with the newer style mrap ones. Painting took longer than the install. Much better rear view.

Half the fun is going at you own pace. And 55 in one of these trucks seems a lot faster when you need to stop quick!

A bit of lubricant doesn't hurt. Just about anything else is pointless. Some use motor oil or 2 stroke, some use whatever is at Walmart. I use xdp. It's cheap, you only need a tiny bit per tank, and it lubricates well.

You should be hearing the air releasing from one of the 3 quick release valves. My front driver side wheel airs down because the wheel valve diaphragm is shot. I have a replacement on the way. Check the duckbill on the quick release for the wheel in question. If air is coming out, the diaphragm...

Don't forget your lights. But like everyone says, off is the exact reverse of on. On: battery, engine, lights Off: lights, engine, battery

Remove the ctis wheel valve and put a Schrader core in the stem. If the tire leaks down you have a leak in the split rim or the tire. If it doesn't leak, put soap and water in a spray bottle and start looking for bubbles. Things that leak: O-ring in the split rim (Big) nail in tire Stem going...

I think I'll try a $17 rebuild kit before buying a $100 valve. Must be made of gold.

Is this a front axle / rear axle difference? All mine seem the same. Its getting dark though and I didn't check model #s.

Well I took the wheel valve apart. It was nasty in there. I cleaned out the gunk and put it all back together. No change. I did notice that it basically deflates whenever the CTIS is not inflating. So the ctis is cycli g on and off a lot. When I shut the truck down I was able to remove the...

I'm guessing it's encoded or the app is FUBAR. A better idea might be to use the i-nigma app directly on one of those codes, rather than on a picture of one.

Resolution not as important as good focus and a very steady shot.

The IUID is a data matrix code. Most QR/Barcode readers will NOT be able to read the IUID. I tested quite a few scanner apps on my Android phone. None were able to read a data matrix code. I take that back. I just found 1 app that was able to do it: i-nigma QR & Barcode Scanner...

Try replacing the o-rings first. There's a few threads on that. I think the big one is 3mm thick and 12mm id. Most of the replacement units out there are stupidly expensive. Worth it to try new rings.

Cool. I'll get it broken down asap and see what's in there.