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Mike - you did good on the auto resize feature, but the SS seems a bit contentious - kind of like the post/don't post GL auctions thing. I personally do not care one way or the other but it sounds like you either need to pull out the watermark or make it optional if you want to put this fire out.

Never handled a robo impact so I can't say for certain, but the sockets are a standard 3/4" square drive. Someone with a robo impact and one of my sockets care to chime in? Kenny, maybe?

You are probably correct, but I am greedy.....

Sorry, can't properly respond, too much saliva on the keyboard.The SS logo does seem to detract a bit, although for those who steal our photos for use on another web site, it does appear to be appropriate punishment. May even earn us a few more SS Members.....

If you really feel you gotta do something, then replace the door channels and weatherstrips. But as devilman96 points out, do NOT lube any of this stuff. The system was designed to operate properly (to 1950s standards) without lube. Start squirting some lube on these rubber parts, the rubber...

I've seen those brass contacts advertised before, although I can't recall where, perhaps a marine supply shop. Pardon my ignorance, but the common lead split ring terminals have worked fine on Deuces for some 57 years now, and countless other civvy and other military vehicles for maybe a century...

I got a new Interstate p/n U6TL "Workaholic" (without the -VHD) from a local repair shop for about $105.00. Go to the Interstate web site and use the dealer locater feature. Call every dealer on the list and ask for a price. I got quotes from $105 to $160 per battery. NAPA also carries a U6TL...

OK, if its new, I'll try it... Yup, worked for me. (Ether start system data plate)

Re: again... alphadeltaromeo, your "test.jpg' gives me a real "woody".....

RE: Re: RE: Window crank / door handle disassembly To reiterate, preventively, DO NOT remove the door latch or window crank mechanisms unless they are completely FUBAR. I am a fairly small guy, 5'-9", 160 lbs. My drivers side door latch WAS fubar and I had to R&R it. In a stroke of dim...

Re: RE: Bridge Plate Well, that bites. Stencil and black paint?

4 bearing cones. When you buy your inner and outer bearings (BCA/Timken #s 392 and 3994) you will get only the cones (races). You will need to buy the cups (raceways, BCA/Timken #3920) separately. BTW, not to hijack your thread, but what happened to the "Bearing and Seal part number...

Scott - Still have them, Paypal away. Dave - I'll be at Clare on Saturday and will have some with me. Got to meet citizensoldier there also, I am swapping him my pair of M135 wheels for his pair of M35 wheels. I'm going to try and make it to the Silver Lake show too. Need to do a little work...

That would be me. Still got them by the bucket full. Still $14.40 each, shipping via USPS Priority is $4.60 and I can cram up to three sockets in one package and it still costs you only $4.60 for shipping (US only, International shipping runs about $11.00 per socket, unfortunately). See the...

An attractive proposition. A .66 OD ratio would allow those of us running stock 9:00-20 tires a cruise speed of 55-60 MPH in the fuel economy "sweet spot" of 2000-2200 engine RPM, and still be near the peak of the engine torque curve. Very interesting, keep us informed on your progress.

That filter is way too long for a primary filter. It is most likely a secondary filter that some GI Joe stuck in there because it was what he had in hand at the time. The primary filter is about 1/2 the length of a secondary filter, to allow water and other miscellaneous crud to fall out in the...

Thanks for the compliment. I must admit though that I am not ALWAYS correct, especially when relying on memory, but I do try to be as correct as possible. The short answer as how fuel gets from the FDC into the crankcase is quite simple. The FDC is attached to the top of the injection pump...

Yes, you are correct. However, with the FDC bypassed, the engine will not be able to compensate for the reduced heat content of kerosene (or #1 Diesel, they are very nearly the same, except for the road tax and dye) and your power output will be reduced. With the FDC operational, it will...

FDC bypassed or not, straight waste engine oil is just too thick to run on. You run the risk of damaging your hydraulic head due to over pressure as straight WEO will not flow fast enough to stay ahead of the high pressure plungers. In effect, you can create a hydrostatic lock like condition in...

Agreed, a spin on anti-drainback or remote filter system can reduce time to pressure by 50%-75%, but only a prelube system will reduce the time to pressure to zero. As Bjorn pointed out, in EXTREME cold weather, say -20F or lower, the oil just ain't going to flow at all unless you preheat the...