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YES I GOT IT!!! The Highpoint M125 truck with a M816 wrecker body is MINE! I gave the guy a deposit today, he is going to truck it out here for $3K, I should have it early next week!
Its probably going to take me the good part of the summer to repaint it OD, maybe even 3 color camo. I realize...
I need a M125 wrecker moved from Union City NJ to Chase MI (approx 45 miles eat of Ludington MI (OK, I know there is no such thing as a M125 wrecker, this is a M125 10 ton cargo truck refitted with a M816 wrecker body). Mapquest mileage is approx 825 miles. FYI, this truck is about 30' long...
Re: RE: Re: RE: WTB M816 Wrecker Western Michigan area
I've been looking into the M816 in Ohio, the one in the SS classifieds (that one is in Missouri) and another one in Nebraska.
But that M126/M816 wrecker is "DA TRUCK"! If I could figure out a way to get it home I'd send the seller a check...
Re: RE: WTB M816 Wrecker Western Michigan area
That one is a potential. Decent price, running condition unknown, the decision will hinge on what it costs me to get it transported.
Now the Highpoint wrecker - M816 body on a M125 chassis - now that is a WRECKER!!!!!!!! I'm gonna seriously talk...
I have to disagree. If the fuel is turned too low it will affect starting. My truck was always a good runner, a little underpowered, and often hard to start. I cranked up the fuel 1/3 turn (two flats of the adjusting nut) and it was like a new truck. More power and started in a flash. Eventually...
I need a M816 wrecker moved from Kenton OH (approx 50 miles south of Toledo) to Chase MI (approx 45 miles eat of Ludington MI. Mapquest mileage is approx 325 miles, most all of it expressway. FYI, a M816 is bout 30' long, 112" high, 98" wide and weighs 35,000 - 36,000 pounds.
The trucks...
Flat spotting was a common problem with nylon corded bias ply tires, but I've never heard of it on polyester or steel corded radial tires. I doubt the missing outer front rear duals would create the problem either, but I've been wrong at least once.
My guesses as to the problem you describe...
As stated, you can buy a pig in a poke. There have been many LDT/LDS engines on sale in the past at all sorts of prices. I bought two out of Columbus about a year ago for something like $400 (N/A) and $450 (C Turbo). Haven't done anything with them yet so I don't have any idea how good or how...
Not a TM but there is a document in the TM section. See the following thread:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=3682
The first thing I would do is take a digital photo of each truck's data plate and than make handwritten notes of the general condition, completeness and appearance of each truck, tied to the data plate ID number. Than at least you have a place to start from.
RE: NC Insurance
State Farm offers Collectors/Historic Vehicle/Antique insurance. I pay less than $150/yr for full coverage including collision and comprehensive, which is extraordinarily low for Michigan!
Lots of times the tip of the bit bottoms out and prevents the drive edges on the bit from fully engaging the slot of the screw. I routinely grind off 1/16" or so from the tip of all my Phillips bits. It really helps with those stubborn screws!
I have a couple of take outs on some spare engines I got from GL. If you are really hard up I can take them up to the alternator shop, get them checked out and ship one out to you tomorrow. Call me at 231-832-5939 if you are interested.
RE: Deuce VIN
Don't confuse VINs and serial numbers. Older Deuces had serial numbers, either a five or six digit number sometimes with a four digit prefix which is coded to identify the type of truck. For example, my 1970 Kaiser Jeep has the serial number 14943 stamped on the frame rail, and...