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Anybody got any ideas on how to remove the HH when the red mark on a gear tooth is gone? I don't know but is it possible to remove the HH if number one cylinder is top-dead-center? Hopefully so. Just a guess. Please help.

This is an interesting idea. Do you have a list of necessary parts to make this match up to transmission, motor mounts, etc. OK? Thanks for the help, Orren

Wouldn't be nice if one of the hard top manufactures made the top with visor built in? Also, side window visors are handy so rain doesn't come in when windows are cracked open a little to keep cab cooler.

Does anyone know of a rebuilder or source for HD 90100A's? Thanks for the help. Orren

This is something I'm trying to do but the center plug is extremely tight and I've not been able to loosen it at all even after soaking in penetrating oil and far exceeding torque spec. Do you think this is an indication that something is amiss with the HH/IP or am I just too weak? Sure don't...

I really like Lucas products for all lubes. Quieted down the high noise level in the duece a lot. Use as directed. Good luck.

Tom, I'm trying to take the HH off but can't turn the plunger bore screw on top. Is it necessary to remove this to get HH off? Thanks for the help, Orren

Gimp: Do you mean the black piece that has a small rod attached at bottom end? I got the small rod to move OK when unattached but can not get the black piece to swing. Is this normal or something locking it up? Also, do you know where to get parts for these IP's? Thanks for the help, Orren

I like your idea. I now run a 5.9 Cummins in my Dodge pick up and love it even with waste fuels. But would like to know what's necessary to match up to transmission? And how well do you think in will fit the engine compartment? Thanks for your comments. Orren

The 3208 Cat is a great engine. Have used it in civy trucks with automatic trans. Will burn Waste oils great. Good luck.

First thing to check is that the oil pressure sending unit matches the oil pressure gauge. I believe there are two for these trucks, 60 psi and 120 psi.

Unlocked lock out hubs really help, too for hard pavement cornering, etc.

I believe truing is only necessary for heavy highway use. Increased road contact is not what is really important as much as the roundness of the tire so wear is even over the total circumference.

It means having the tire ground down to where it is near perfectly round. Tires from the factory are rarely round enough and so tend to wear quicker. It may seem counter intuitive taking rubber off but in the long run it works out better. Of course balancing should follow truing. All of this...

I like having new tires "trued" but finding someone who can do this on large truck tires may be a challenge. Really helps extend mileage life of any tire by way more than the extra cost.

Would be nice if users could set a default page upon sign in.

Whenever I think corrosion is causing connection problems I spray connectors with battery post spray before and after reinstalling. Works for me!

Like you I use alternate fuels and to get my flame heater to work I use a mixture of #2 diesel and 25% gasoline from a small separate tank. In more extreme conditions you might want to try using #1 diesel (kerosene). Good luck.

Are you using an alternate fuel such as recycled engine oil or WVO? This device doesn't seem to work too well on these fuels so I am building a special tank for a good starting fuel such as 90% diesel and 10% gasoline. Good luck, Orren

Primary fuel strainer Bjorn, Sure would like to have one of those primary strainers shown in your post. Have any idea where I might get one, complete, in good condition? Thanks for your help, Orren Winjum