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Started snowing so its curtailed my troubleshooting for now. Getting another battery later to swap out the rear one with before I try to crank it up again. Front battery showed 12.69V, rear 12.8V.
Checked all the cables in the start circuit, connection on the starter is tight and clean. No...
Yeah well, getting someone else to fix it, particuraly electrical has never really worked out for me. Have a couple of CUCV guys up here. the best consensus is; a smoking battery terminal sounds like a dead short in the starter wiring. Of course it was more than smoking it was welding and...
Woke up hoping someone here would have posted some incredibly usefull insight or some past experience leads. Major disapointment, here I've had all sorts of suggestions thrown at me; bad starter, starter solenoid, battery, starter relay. Have had a starter go bad and a battery die, neither of...
Officially stuck..at least I'm at home. Decided to open a new thread for this problem, hopefully I can get some ideas from you guys. Had to replace the fuel lift pump yesterday, at the same time I swapped in a new filter assembly. went to bleed the system today with an air compressor @5psi. Got...
I also have a manual cold start wired to an illuminated toggle switch. Actually prefer it to the stock setup. As I'm running a push button glow plug system I guess it doesn't matter re; the glow plug card getting a signal from the cold start solenoid.
Putting in a new fuel lift pump, which only lasted 5 years. I decided to replace the fuel filter housing assembly at the same time. Tomorrow I"m going to bleed the system using compressed air via the fuel tank. I know how to bleed the filter. Question is, I have now allowed some air into the...
I replaced the lift pump on my M1009 on 12/2005. Today I noticed a leak underneath that I thought was coolant. On closer inspection it is diesel fuel. Traced it to the lift pump. Its not coming from any of the fuel lines but seems to be coming out of the lower most edge of the pump. It is a...
I agree with cracking the fuel cap when you shut off. It was one of my major gremlins; losing prime every night. You should hear a audible air release if the caps failed internally. I fixed it by drilling a very tiny hole through the cap.
My 86 has the boot with clamps, so it looks like the second design. I'm a little bit confused. In the TM it shows a zerk on this second design also. "The CV joint has a needle zerk fitting usually" Thats what I'm trying to figure out, did I miss this? or it doesn't exist?. Have a friend...
Was doing some lubing on my M1009. In the TM's it shows there should be lube zerks on the u-joints and a hole for the slip joint. Is this only on the M1008, because I cant see anywhere to lube either the u-joints which are sealed originals or the CV joint. There is a rubber boot on the shaft but...
Why not replace the fenders? Even good clean used ones will do. If you are intent on repairing, cut back the metal until you have no rust showing. grind off the paint several inches from the cut line. If there's an area thats still rusted, more than surface rust, ie ; a grinder wont remove it...
C code or J code filter? Am I missing something here. I've allways just bought a filter for a 6.2 diesel. I was not aware of any difference here. Someone care to elaborate
Big Red...I concur with your disgust at Canadian prices, particularly for these AC glow plugs. We are seriously getting ripped here. A while ago I inquired of our Canadian members what prices they were paying for these, but nobody piped up.They list here for $35.00, the best price I could get...
When I first got my M1009 7 years ago, we put a 4" lift in it. 2 years later I started hearing a high pitched squeeling underneath. It was the original u-joint near the transfer case, the bearings were dry and grinding into dust. Put new greasable u-joints in. They only lasted 3 years, same...
You're good to go. You dont need the fuel pressure switch. It was for the military STE/ICE testing equipment. Probably the major cause of everyones air in fuel woes, it was deleted on later models.
A lot of negativity re the push button system there mate. I disagree with you! I've run mine for 6 years, works great, and I do after glow when its cold. Many of the guys up here with CUCV's have done the same. And no.. we are not FNG's. Another thing to consider is the stock card is set up for...
AC13's..are you serious. How are his problems solved? This is an old outdated design, prone to burning out and or swelling. You want to use AC 60G's. they are the current replacement.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/43...onnectors.html
"good info in this thread, also has a link to a time/temp chart. "
Am I the only one who finds the Wellaman temps a little suspect on these charts. I mean its showing 1500 degrees at 0.1 seconds!
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