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Ya I'd say that's doable.

How many times you gotta adjust those things? I think I'm going to make a tool to grab onto the harmonic balancer nut without having to pull the radiator. These engines aren't hard to roll. Just not a good way to do it with everything in place.

Have you contacted m35tom? He has a lot of experience with this particular pump.

Don't forget to pull the shut off cover and verify the red/scored tooth is visible.

Is the part that broke the center plug on the hh or that plug on the side?

Ah. Hmm. I don't have much experience with vain pumps.

Does the intake port on your oil tank have a screen in it? I watched your 3rd video and that sounds like fluid starvation to me. I had a ditching machine that the suction screen clogged and that's exactly what it sounded like when you reved it up and tried to engage the digging chain.

I believe that's just a gear pump. I have replaced worn out gear pumps that didn't make much more noise than a new pump. They leaked more than anything.

I guess that's a matter of opinion. If I have someone to help me roll the engine over to line up the timing marks I can have an ip off in about 30 min. An hour if I'm by myself. This does depend on how hard it is to get the injector lines out of the hh. Which you would need to do to change...

You basically have 3 choices on how to deal with removing the booster pump. 1. Remove the entire injector pump. Probably the easiest method if you don't have a way to lift a 1600 pound engine. 2. Remove front and side motor mount bolts and lift the engine a few inches and then pull it...

Air bags will actually be much simpler than coil overs on a truck this heavy. Plus the airbags will ride better and handle more weight than any coil over.

No. This is not suitable for use in a differential.

Stock rims aren't worth a crap for anything but 9.00-20s or 11.00-20s. Anything bigger or wider and the wheel offset is all wrong. Lift won't solve this. Actually it could make rubbing on steering parts worse. To run 395s you should run the correct wheels.

At my local jd dealer it was about $3.50 per tube. If you want to drain this stuff out of whatever you put it in all you need to do is add heat. This stuff will flow if heated. So maybe set one of those gas mr. Buddy heaters next to the winch with the drain plug out? I don't see why that...

Woops sorry. No the thrust washer is on the back of the u joint.

Hit those burrs with a file like ford mechanic said. As long as the seal seats good in the retainer it should be ok. Or if you have a few pennies (ok more than a few) I can hook you up with upgraded inner seals complete with new retainers.

I have the older style trucklite leds. While they are a step up from stock they aren't jw speaker good. Not even remotely close. That being said I paid $150 for a n.o.s pair. Not $800 for the jw speaker versions. So I can't really complain too much since they do look cool And work better...

I had my a3 wheels sand blasted and powdercoated. In my eyes that was an excellent $400 investment to have 7 wheels done. They coated them inside and out. This way I won't be fighting rust when it's time to install new tires. They also look fantastic.

It's actually a common set up in the light truck world. Except the steering box is tapped and the winch is plumbed into the box.

Not true. The booster pump seal also has fuel on one side and oil on the other. The flame heater nozzle can also theoretically contaminate the engine oil but this is the least likely scenario.