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I have gotten e mails over the last year asking me, if it is me?? They all think I am little crazy thanks..

It will work, you may have to size the injectors with but I doubt it...

Here is a veeerrryy long list of manufacturer codes for the DB2 pump, good luck finding the right one! GM 6.2L & 6.5L APPLICATIONS AND SUPERSESSION INFORMATION DATE: April 27, 2001 SUPERSEDES: P.B. 119R5 dated 5/21/97 DB2829-4127 14050526 1982 LD Truck - ALT. C/K — — DB2829-4151 14061645...

I keep getting this pic. in my work email asking me if this is me...WTH

I had to swap the flywheelwiththe 700r4 swap I didn't noticed anything..

I have 700r4 with turbo drive it 3rd gear where I live, we have some hills but on the high way I pull about 1600 rpm @ 65-70

try K&N electric out of Cincinnati they have them around 119 I belive new, thats with a discount...

I got 6 or 7 from gl rebuilt them and I love it. Mine are delc remey out of humvee and are built in Brazil go figure spins allitle faster then the stock one I swaped out.. if you it, it has different hanger for the rear that gm still stocks.. the mt27 is the 12volt starter Also the starter is...

sensors checked? voltmeter and ohms reading.. I can't recall but comes up with search. and it is in the tM's and or your card got glich?

I have 700r4 in my 1009 I am running about 1600 rpm at 70mph.. the nv4500 is going in my 1028 I need it pull camper and 9000lb skid steer and other crap. but i strongly considering dropin down to a 4.10 ratio for my 5th gear that way I hope to achieve about 70-75 mph at 1900 to 2000 rpm

I would check the link from bus bar to the resistor pack?? just a guess that link is on 24v side but seems like good jumping off point.

1. mount lower than the outlet on the tank 2. it easier to push fuel with electric pump 3. filter screen between the pump and the tank this all to keep aready supply of fuel to keep pump cool there is bunch threads on this do a search

fuel problem? I think your line lock the the pump,. I can't recall the right term, but here what I think is going on.. Your I.P and lift pump are rated for higher delivery than your motor can usally burn.. so it will start and Idel maybe even drive around at low speed okay, for awhile...

Do you st have the metal return line that run across the front of motor? I am thinking that may be the reasons for the Knots in the rubber? assumong you are in ohio? as for the leak and and the GP wait light ch the senor on the drive side head.. I found bad one on motor I removed a coupled weeks...

that 4500 crap is stupid expensive $$$ I can buy the 2wd traany for 200-300 all day long her but the 4wd crap is 1200 1600 bucks. I am doing the same as you with t case.. did you have to get new Drive shafts?

I paid 300 bucks for 2wd version, bought a used flywheel for 6.5 with a turbo and heads for 150, gong have more then likey put another 300 for a$$ end of the tranny for 4wd stuff. If the pedal work out of 90 2500 I am set total would be about 700 800 buck range... next year I plan to do the 6 bt...

Doing the same swap, I still have to get the crap to convert my 2wd to 4wd. I have question about clutch pedals , maybe you might know?? is hydro out sm465 pedal set up the same as the NV if not could it be made to work easly enough??

Busting your chops dude different contract, although I am curious about those dang burn f8000 crew bads we had all over the place with 20- 24ft beds and 6x6 most where 84 and up..

TA da I know we had fords,chevys, and internationals that where had m- number granted they where medium duty trucks. I belive after 198? somthing the navy/marine corp gave up on M35a2. I aways thought they where covered under the procurment avenue?

Well let me know I have about 100 rocker shafts for 6 cly A/C motor that use for tent stakes ect..