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In a pinch, an old trick we used to do was back the plug out just about 1/16th to 1/8th inch and wrap the heck out of it with the teflon tape. Just pull a little, wrap it like string around the plug as snug around the exposed threads as you can get it and use plenty of it. Then re-tighten the...
When I was 10 years old, I wore a set of fatigues and rode on an M113A1 in the 1979 Gardena, California Loyalty Day Parade with the National Guardsman down the street from the house I grew up in. Those pics brought back some memories! :mrgreen:
The antenna mount was already on the roof when I got it on the left side right near the driver's left ear. I may move it later, but since it was already mounted, I went ahead and hooked it up.:mrgreen:
I pulled some wire last night, got my CB mounted and hooked up and got a hot lead routed and hooked up my dome light. I'm lovin this old beast more and more all the time!
:driver:
Yes, I meant the drag link. And bearing pre-load is a fancy term for how hard the axle nut squeezes in on the bearings. Too much bearing pre-load equals hot hubs after a long drive. I'm pretty sure there's something in the TM about how tight the axle nuts should be.
:driver:
I took a couple pics of the top I just put on my deuce. Thanks to SMOKEWAGON66 for the roof and the CB outfit! Here's the best pic. I just have to figure out where to mount the 2 marker lights he threw in the deal. lol
OK Guys, I think I figured it out. Think this one over and see if it makes sense to you too. Bad shocks will cause excessive outer tire wear because when the suspension compresses at higher speeds (don't laugh) because as the axle comes up, the angle of the link from the pittman arm changes...
That looks pretty groovy! As for the rear-steer idea, C&C has that as an available option on thier bobbers.
:jumpin:
I've showed this pic to a couple people that didn't even notice the rear wheels weren't straight. lol
OK Blue, silly question: Have you checked your front bearing pre-load? If you've got any play in the front hubs, that could cause it. I don't understand how old dead shocks can cause off-center tread cupping like that. I'm stumped on this one!
:???:
Here's the shorter version for those who have a hard time finding a decent parking space or just have a short driveway. Looks like fun, don't it? lol
[thumbzup]
I actually had that thought once! Your visualization is pretty close to how I pictured it. Looks awsome BTW!
That would sure turn some heads everywhere it went! Now picture something similar in a bobber length. Kinda the difference between a Suburban and a Blazer. [thumbzup]
Right on Blue, a good friend of mine has been an OTR driver for years and according to him, as long as you're between 1/8th and 1/4th inch of toe-in, you should be fine. How much toe-in did you have before? That's about what my front tires looked like with 2 inches of toe-in after my 580-mile...
No problemo! I've done a bit of study of geometry dealing with choppers (bikes, not helecopters) as if the front end geometry isn't correct, the bike will handle like doo doo.
Some people have a head for geometry and some others it makes smoke come outta thier ears! lol [thumbzup]
Isopropyl alcohol is fine as a diesel addetive in small quantity especially if you're using WVO or biodiesel to prevent freezing. If you've got a deuce and you plan to run WMO, you can use the alcohol to thin the oil so it will filter easier and move through the fuel system. If you mix it with...
Think of your basic geometry. Your basic 9.00 NDTs are around 37 inches tall depending on wear and pressure. that's 18.5 inches from the center of the axle to the outside of the tread. The rim is 20 inches in diameter, making it 10 inches from the center of the axle to the outside of the rim. If...