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Here is what I'm thinking for the wiring from the switch to the jake heads.
I've never worked with diodes before but they're simple and my buddy the electrical engineer says they'll work all day everyday and this is a simpler way to do it than with relays. All 4 of the wires that terminate...
I almost gave in and went with the standard toggle switch but the data plates that would have looked the right vintage were going for $40+ on ebay for old scratched up data plates. Instead, I designed my own data plate that would look original and work with a 3-position rotary switch. I spent...
Work is continuing on making the rest of the circuit functional for the jake brakes. I'm going to use a rotary switch to select between OFF, LO (2 heads), and HI (3 heads) and I'm going to install the switch in the water fording cable location. Removing the knockout plug revealed a 5/8"+ hole...
Here are a few 2-piece HubHelpers in the white. Note; the mottled appearance is the acid etching from the zinc phosphate bath and that is how I'll send out the bare steel versions. It's a good substrate to paint on. The powder coated versions get the same treatment but they're painted over...
Once the tears over my cracked window subsided I was able to see well enough to trial fit my new jake brake switch and data plate.
I'll have more details about these pieces probably in my grenade shifter thread later on. For now I have HubHelpers to work on.
I decided to tackle my cracked passenger side windshield this weekend using this thread as a guide: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?183190-M35A2-Windshield-Rebuild&highlight=Windshield
Everything went slow but OK. I bought a pneumatic caulk gun which made everything a breeze...
I'm sorry I don't have any pictures of this one in use since none have been delivered yet, but I will post them up if I get any photos back from customers.
Quick update on the HubHelpers: All of the 2.5, 5, and 10 ton HubHelpers have made it through all of their fabrication steps are awaiting a zinc-phosphate bath before getting powder coated.
Quick update on the HubHelpers: All of the 2.5, 5, and 10 ton HubHelpers have made it through all of their fabrication steps are awaiting a zinc-phosphate bath before getting powder coated.
There are several forces in play and as Mrgior31513 mentions, there are stresses at the 90° bend and those will be the same regardless of how many holes are engaged with lug nuts. There is a vertical shear stress from gravity pulling straight down on the hub & drum and that stress is shared by...
The inner wheel bearing will be captive in the hub held in by the inner wheel seal.
I had gear oil gushing out of my hub as soon as I removed the hub cap which was the sign that mine had an axle shaft leak, but a lesser leak would be harder to find. I would guess that any gear oil beyond that...
The main difference is the bailout connector where the E model has the oval, rubber encapsulated male/female 9-volt battery looking interface and the F model has the round metal Nexus connector. I'm not the expert here so I don't know of any internal differences.
Weird- I can change mine from my cell phone. I have an android and I use the "Full Site View" when using this sight which is different than the short hand version. I don't know about iPhones & Tapatalk though...
I was searching for awhile before I ran across these several months ago; not the easiest to find. I bought 5 of them and they sent (3) H-161 E/U and (2) H-161 F/U so they do have a mix of them. Mine were 1990 mg. date so the foam was starting to melt, but they are new in the wrapper : )...
Yeah, it's a scramble. My oil pressure is top left & air is bottom right but like you say I have seen all configurations. I suppose "standard" would be what the TMs show.
For reference, my '79 has identical gauges for the oil & air. I'm not sure about the water temp - seems too accurate to be electric. Battery & fuel are obviously electric.