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After checking the wiring on the run switch make sure you have that missing bolt in place before ever trying to start it again, it matters not that it was working that way before, there will be a time that disaster will strike and it could be the next time you hit start.
If that starter drops...
Holy Moly, out of the three other half shafts two of them have loose bolts, they used standard lock washers and I see no evidence of any locking compound :mad:
I was assuming by 2008 they would be using Nord-Lock washers, so all four corners will get all new bolts and Nord-Lock washers on both...
You should get the same effect if you hold the throttle at say 55MPH and press the brake and then release, you should see the RPMs rise then fall as the torque converter unlocks then goes back into lock.
The switch RWH was speaking of would simply go in series with the brake switch to simulate...
IIRC the 28 tooth is for the 10K trucks with the 10K 242 transfer case, the 3 speed is shorter than the 4 speed.
I think the shaft you ordered is for the 10.3K 242 when installed in the 3 speed trucks so it would be longer than the standard A2 shaft.
Then again I could be completely wrong :LOL:
I filed form 130-U "application for Texas title" today, total out of pocket $28, much better now that we know what boxes to check :)
The right front drive flange does not look too bad but because I am building this truck for resale I am treating it like I would any other customer vehicle.
So I...
First nobody knows how many miles any vehicle has because the speedos get changed all the time, could be 8K but might not.
You say reconditioned, by whom?
As TOBASH says it could be a lift pump, it could be a plugged fuel tank vent (try loosening the fill cap) it could be a plugged fuel tank...
It does not matter, that is the RPM sender for the diag port, it is simply a reed switch that opens and closes once every crankshaft revolution to be used by the diag equipment you likely will never have or will ever need.
Friday you were not puking oil out of the air filter, things change, you still need to check the ones listed to see what is going wrong.
You can also open the water drain valve on the fuel filter to see if you have any fuel flow while cranking the engine.
We have seen it time and time again on this forum where someone buys a HMMWV and was told all the fluids and filters had been changed only to find out later that was total BS, you can assume it is BS unless you bought it from a reputable dealer of which there are very few.
Have you checked the...
What I do is replace the piece of hose eliminating the tee going to the pump then run a separate vent line from the pump up to the same place the system vent terminates near the air filter, I suspect if you plug the vent at the pump and it failed it would fill the crank case with diesel.
RWH said the ECV and REV have that vent line connected to the fuel fill line so that would not be an issue, if the pump was pushing fuel out the vent it would simply return to the tank so what I said earlier is not valid in you case.
Did you buy this from Iron Planet or an individual? you need...
As Dieselmeister said, I was going to suggest something like this.
https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-3-in-cut-off-tool-58690.html?_br_psugg_q=cut+off+tool
It could be the Cadillac valve, they are known to be noisy and close to the brake booster, you should be able to put your hand on it and feel it vibrating.
Careful it could be HOT
The fuel pump has a "vent" attached to all the drive components, it can literally fill the geared hubs, diffs, trans/transfer and possibly the engine with diesel.
Driving it without fully servicing it and paying attention to the little things can cost you dearly.
Start by checking the fluid and...