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I'm not sure what trans/transfer he is going to use but I have been beating on a 7/10K drive train (diffs/axles) 2.56 gears with over 400HP and well over 700ftlb of torque without being able to break anything, just turned 17K on the conversion I am assuming he is starting with a 12k truck with...

Looks like the steering gear, Shepard on that unit and very expensive.

Also you can unplug one of the leads to the thermal switch, that should also force the fan to run, That will test the cadillac valve and TDM, if it runs all the time with one lead unplugged on the thermal switch but will not run when the engine gets to the point it starts to actually over heat...

You can simply unplug the Cadillac valve to see if the fan not coming on is your problem, that will force the fan to run continuously

It took 7 mo on one Army M1097A1, then 5 days after I picked up the last Army M1097R1 that I bought the SF97 was in my mail box. It is a total crap shoot as far as I can tell.

These guys say they have a 4 row radiator, all I have seen and bought have 3 rows. If I was in the market for one I would give this a try...

That is a 60A, bad regulators are very common and cause the exact symptoms you describe, replace the brushes also. It should be obvious once you get the gen apart, there are usually some burnt components.

Yep for a "little" more, I still need to replace one I damaged but I think I will wait and see if they get any back in stock.

Welcome to the SS forums!!

The cond runs to the high side of the compressor, the low side runs to the evaps. I cannot help with the part number :(

Interesting, the only Petlas tire I see at Simple that comes close is a 16" please post the link to the 16.5" tire

You also really should download the TMs and read the schematics, just guessing as you go is a good way to spend allot more money. That large "red" wire goes to the 28V output terminal on the alt itself. It is perfectly normal for the trans light to be on when the engine is not running but the...

As I said earlier it is common to see a higher ohm reading such as you are getting from pin A to the B+ terminal, 3 ohms is close enough. The measurement from A to D is also close enough, what do you get when you touch the red and black meter leads together? I would suspect it will not be zero...

Yes, take mrfarb advice as there are allot of chicom knock off parts out there for the HMMWV, some look very convincing and all chicom electrical parts are crap.

If you are reading 25V then the alt is not making anything, that is just the battery voltage. 99% of the time it is a regulator, the alternators are RARELY the problem, but of course you want to troubleshoot before spending money, throwing parts at a problem is never the answer. You should have...

Wow that is allot of $$$

How does he balance the load across the batteries? Also he is probably pulling the 400A alts out, no real good reason to get rid of a 200A

They have a turbo version, but I do not have the part number, you should be able to find it on their website. The turbo radiator is longer

You are correct, some of the "military dealers" are trying to get $599 and more for this radiator

Welcome to the SS forums!