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Posted by me in the FAQ thread: Gates - Driver's side Alt, 7575 Pass side Alt, 7483 Power Steering, 7448 You can cross them to most any other brand, Gatorbacks seem to be the best for preventing belt squeal. Later, Joe

I'm running some trailers down to ABQ and can bring stuff north. Empty 51' 3 car ramp trailer. Shoot me a PM if you need anything moved north. Could also squeeze some smaller items on the back if you need it moved south from Colorado. Later, Joe

Use the 'Book it Now' option with what you want to pay. It helps shippers figure out what price range you are looking for. Also, you might just get a hit on that price and save the time of going back and forth. Later, Joe

I've forded a few rivers in my wheeling adventures. It's more about technique than anything. You want to maintain a slow, steady forward progress rather than charging in. The idea is to form an air pocket in front of the engine when the water is over the hood. Be careful if you get stuck...

I just picked up the 40 tooth gear from the local dealer for $9.19 +tax. They had one at the local warehouse. I'm not surprised that the little eccentric sleeve is 40-43 tooth as the stock gear is probably 42 or 43t. You rotate the housing to engage the teeth of the gears so that the different...

Before you condemn the system to manual operation, check the resistance on the yellow wire that goes to the temperature sensor on the back of the driver's side head. To do so, pull down the glow plug controller and probe the back where the wire goes in, there's plenty of room for a standard...

The drive gear in the T-case should be a an "A" gear per the Chevy Truck parts book I have. That translates to a 7 tooth drive gear. The Driven gear should be a "U" gear which is 21 tooth. (ETA: This info is for a 205 transfer case...) ETA: The 208 should have a 15 tooth "B" gear as the drive...

It sounds like the light for the heater controls, the one for the voltmeter isn't a twist-lock it's push in and the bulb is a regular 1/4 turn bulb, not a push in 194 bulb. Later, Joe

I had a good day electrically yesterday working on my 1008. I pulled the instrument cluster and cleaned all the terminals on the connector. Now my fuel gauge works along with all the dash lights so I can read the fuel gauge and speedo at night. Solved my intermittent problem with Gen 1 light...

I've never had to bleed the injectors on any of my CUCVs after running them out of fuel or changing the filter. Bleed the filter block to get fuel up that high, then just crank it in 15 second intervals until it starts. It might run rough for the first minute or so as all the remaining air is...

No, on military genset diagrams DS typically means 'light bulb' while S means 'switch'. If you reference the above wiring diagram extract, you will see that it has DS2 as a light bulb (the circle with the loop inside) and S3 as the toggle switch on the panel, but Door Switch is written out as...

Colorado just passed a bill to allow HMVs (including trailers) to not have to display license plates. The vehicles must be registered and titled, but the plates can be kept in the vehicle instead of mounted on it. We were trying to get the same law as TX passed where the bumper number or...

Glad to hear that the engine runs now... halfway there now... :) Is the engine revving up to 1800 RPM? It won't produce voltage unless it is near operating speed, which is 1800 RPM. If it is ramped up to 1800 and still not producing power, then the field might need to be flashed in order to...

Well, if he got a tri-axle trailer and a 920 with the helper axle, that would spread the load over 7 axles, but I'm not sure if this will eliminate the need for overweight permits or not. This would be why I added the disclaimer about GCWR issues :) People think that it's cheaper to just get...

I'd swap the front hubs anyway because I like only having to keep one spare around, but that's a personal preference. If you're parting a truck out, I'm looking for the rifle mounts behind the front seat for my 1008, the Indian reservation that had the truck after the Army removed both of the...

Your best bet is going to be to rewire the cab itself along with the engine harness. While the plugs will physically hook together, the wiring in the cab is sufficiently different to make the swap problematic. The cab wiring isn't too hard, I've done it twice now to remove 'post Army'...

He has an A2 with hydraulic brake lines. Not sure what to do to fix that as I don't have one... LOL I do know that you pull the front pins and set the parking brake, then back up the truck to get it to dump, but I don't know what to do to solve the brake/wiring issues. Later, Joe

Nope, it should bolt in with a minimum of mods. Make sure you take all of the mounts off of the donor to bolt it in. I'm assuming that your donor is a 1st gen truck (89-93) and not a 2nd gen truck (94-01). If you don't have a donor 1st gen truck, I'd suggest trying to find one in a junkyard that...

Welcome to the site... If you're sick and have the cash to build it... Soni's monster M920 would be an epic choice... :) http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/43786-my-own-idea-m920a1.html If you didn't want the extra front drive axle, you could get a M915 and modify it. Then paint a lowboy to...

There is one fuse and one 'push' terminal that you can push a spade terminal in that are 24V, make sure that you check the source you are pulling from with a voltmeter before connecting to electronic equipment, otherwise you will let the magic smoke out. I went to the junkyard and got another...