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I think that is called "coil over" and was a common way to increase load capacity or fide height. I've seen them available but $$$, you have the springs just replace the shocks.

What ever you do, do NOT get a used one that"worked fine when I took it off"! Go the few bucks more and get a new one, my son cheaped out and got burned and then I gave him one I had kicking around and it leaked too. ( at least I didn't charge him :) )

No not one truck, I run 145,000 miles a year and have been doing that for 11 or 12 years, before that I was over the road and miles varied. I keep a truck for about 400,000 miles and never that's NEVER had an IP or injector problem. This has been discussed over and over again in the trucking...

I've never understood the "need" to add aditives for lubricity, I've run over 2 million miles and never had an IP problem. Gelling? yes a couple time and I normally add anti gel when the truck is going to be parked for a couple days in the winter or when it drops below 0*. A few months ago I...

Pics would help, I don't know what blue box your talking about.

For bolts broken by overtightening I've had good luck with useing a sharp center punch and a hammer, place punch near threads and tap at an angle in a counter clock wise direction. I've also had good luck useing a LEFT hand drill bit, it will usaully grab the bolt and unscrew it.

WOW a 292, I haven't seen one of those in years. Looking good but a lot more work than I want to get into now a days!

My 1008 runs like a raped ape too. I know if I was raped I might want to run fast but doubt I could! I'd probably run like and old heavy under powered M1008!

Did you DIY or have to send it out to a shop?

Umm, fuel pump not maintaining pressure? Fuel filter plugged, fuel line crushed? Any or all would cause it to run fine for a bit then on long pulls lose power.

I too am ASC certified and ICAR trained, I spent over 20 years in collision shops and I have never seen a oil cooler leak into the rad UNLESS it was damaged in an accident. So we can put that to rest, now if you want to separate them for cooling purposes then that's a different story! You lose...

Hi all, so I have an anti-freeze leak due to a crack in my radiator Not going to work well or last, get a replacement or soldered up.

Years back we had to paint all the tracks and wheeled vehichles in the moter pool, we did it in a round robin. Station one was the wash rack, two they got a grease put on all lenses, three got OD green, ectra. In some cases the drivers never got out! All was done in no time and with good...

Bearings will have no effect, the drag link may be the problem, have you checked the ride height? If the left spring sags that's going to change the ride height and just like if you put a lift kit in changes the angle of the drag link and that will move the wheel off center.

A c-clamp or c type welding vise grips will work, it's really not under much pressure at all. The pin is actaully a bolt and you can easly replace that with a center bolt bought at a spring shop or what I'd do is use an Allen head bolt and Nylock nut and cut to length. Also, I believe the U...

Never thought about using a seat belt, I use an old 4" wide truck winch strap that I picked up off the side of the road.

Dance class?? :)

You can say that again! Put new ones on mine and even with the plow raised in still sits higher than before WITHOUT the plow. Rides better too.

I've had rear main seals leak twice on 6.2s and both seemed to leak when the engine was warm and run at highway speeds. No easy fix if it is the rear main, hope that little bit of info helps find the problem.

Hmm, I know I'm old and don't remember some things buuuut I don't remember EVER having to remove the arm to change a ball joint! Just like I never removed the whole knuckle at the ball joints to remove the axle yet some people do.