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Here in NY that would defiantly be a keeper!

What a waste! I have replaced the bed crossmembers before, here in NY they rust out even if you keep the truck washed.

Wow! He should start up a "how to" school!

Well seeing as I'm half deaf I don't hear a squeak but I do hear at least one dry bearing! I'd pull it apart and at minimum grease the bearings and no way would I take it back to the so called mechanic!

Kits are available but whatever you do DO NOT turn the crank shaft down! Polishing is fine but I've seen people selling ground cranks and undersized bearing are available but stock cranks break, why would make one weaker? Rebuilding one isn't hard and it's a good time to learn more about the...

What? You don't like Swellman glow plugs? :mad:

Its a chucker, whats a chucker? It's anything you no longer need and chuck into the trash can.

I had that fitting leak on one of my trucks and thought it was the line, dug around and found a used line good enough to get me home and my son and I went to fix the truck. He crawled under and turned out the line was just loose, we bought a cheap set of wrenches and cut one real short and used...

Don't think I've ever heard of marking flywheel to TC before and I've replaced many of them. I don't see why that would be needed.

Before tearing into it jack up one side so the tire is off the ground an inch or so then reach in and stick a screwdriver into that side axle u-joint then making sure hub is in free position spin the the tire. If it spins then hub is free and it's just cold thick grease if tire dosn't spin...

If you packed them and the bearing are not to tight then brakes are whats left. Many times an old caliper get moisture and crude in the cylinder bore and it corrodes the bore that keeps the piston from returning back and keeps the pads rubbing on the rotor. Simple fix, replace caliper.

I'd be jacking it up NOW and checking for a tight wheel bearing, better to be a tad loose than a tad to tight! Did you pack the bearing or just smear grease onto them?

Years ago I put a front hitch on, it was a universal type that the center bar slide into the two end pieces and a long bolt on each side went thru and that determined the width. It was easy to drill two new holes and install, I believe I had to shorten the pieces that actually bolt to the frame...

IIRC you can reach the core support bolts by removeing the grill and looking in a slotted hole thats about 2"x 4, I don't remember having to remove the rad. Be careful, jack it up and the toss a block in there the last thing you want is to have the body come down on your hand and your all by...

Thank you for explaining it much better than I could.

16.5 wheels are getting hard to find and dually 16.5s ... I haven't seen any of those in years. A lot of that old stuff has been crushed and melted back when scrap price was so high. Good luck, it does have a nice look.

I've removed a lot of truck caps and never had them weigh anywhere near 300lbs. But I do like the idea but instead of one D ring in the center and haveing it swing and twist around while mounting/dismounting. I'd use four of them mounted on the sides, less water leaks and you could use them as...

I did the same thing with the splitter, keep in mind the shifter hole has to be moved back 8" and that it hits the stock seat. I heated and bent my shifter a bit ( it helped but not much) it still pops out of reverse sometimes unless I hold it. A seat change may be in my future. That's about all...

I've used china starters before and none of them hold up like the OEM or remaned OEM starters do. I've got one 24v hi-tork china made with about a dozen starts on it and the silver solder holding the conduter wire from solinnoid to the motor itself melted, easy fix if your at home when it happens!!