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Are you getting voltage at the outlet or lugs??? If not, look in the TM under troubleshooting No Voltage. Sounds like the exciter is working but a diode may be bad in the head.
Rirvin , I'm sorry to tell you that is a 10kw box. Your load meter should be reading 1/2 it's true value. BobbyT's box is a 5kw.
Hectorsosa it's not 1 lead that runs through each hole, it's 2 individual leads (wires). They start at the pigtail in the back which you can't see, then one will run...
No. After you start working on it you'll see what I mean. Two individual wires run through each hole, you'll take each wire loose and run them through the hole 2 more times. It is not just 1 wire that runs through the holes.
You would cut the zip ties and follow the wires to where they are connected. Do 1 hole in the transformer at a time. Then take those wires and run them through the back of CVT1 hole, wrap around and go through the hole again, finally re-attaching them to the proper spot.
That is a 10kw box. The problem is that your not dealing with 1 wire in each hole, it's 2 separate wires. I think that is where the confusion is coming from. In your picture, if you count the number of wires that are zip tied closest to you, you will count 4, that is what I mean by 4 wire count...
I've run into this also, I've had several units that had the 190F thermostat's and just couldn't cool down fast enough before the over temp fault would activate. Most have the 165F in them now. Interesting fact but a standard Chevrolet thermostat is an exact fit for these units, also the gasket...
What a second. The 5kw has 4 wraps making 8 wires to count. The 10kw will have 2 wraps with 4wire count. Both boxes are exactly the same, you don't have to add wires to convert a 10kw to a 5kw. I'll take a picture of my 5kw tomorrow so everyone can see. I've converted several boxes over the...
Need to start a new thread so more people can help you. The circuit breaker your referring to, is it the ground fault that is below the fault indicator lights? Are you loading it through the convenience outlets or the lugs? 2nd Unit, did you check the batteries to make sure they have enough...
Don't take the reconnection switch out! Its a PITA! There is enough wire to do whatever you need because everything is the same between each. On the 10kw they zip tie the extra wire out of the way. One wire is connected to the reconnection switch and one is attached to the strip mounted on the...
What you need to do for you Voltage and load gauge is work the VM/AM switch on the front of the panel and the reconnection switch. Also check for loose connections on the VM/AM switch. Most of the time if you rotate both switches about 50 times, you'll see your meters running better. The oil...
Follow the return lines up to the top of the motor. Look for zip ties holding it up. Sometimes they are put on to tight and cause kinks, in turn cutting off fuel.
Are you sure its the fuel rack? From your description, it may have sit for a while and the plunger inside the injector pumps are frozen, which in turn will not let the fuel rail move. Try taking the top of the injector pumps apart while they are in the generator and soak everything in carburetor...
It's good to have a backup breaker anyway. They are actually filled with a fluid from my understanding and after extended amounts of time of exposure to the elements, it dissolves. When the fluid dissipates, it causes the breaker to trip prematurely.
I'm glad you figured it out. Now all you have to do is take half the number of wires that wrap around CVT1 out and zip tie them to the side; you'll have your 10kw distribution box. :beer:
I know it, me too. I bought one from green mountain for $100 thinking it was new because it was so expensive, after I received it found out it was used. Sent it back and bought Triple Jim's for $149. I've also used the weather proof 110volt 24volt chargers that I would plug into the outlet on...