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Yes but the breakers are the same on the 5kw and 10kw, they are both 100amp so you don't change those. The thing you have to change is the windings that go through CVT1 transformer. CVT1 is mounted on the bottom of the box and has the large wires running through them. There are 2 sets of wires...

Great news! Check the diodes on A1 if you have a multi-meter. Really easy since you have it out, you can just test them with the leads on each side.

There are 2 diodes in the A1 assembly, which is located in the control box, where the gauges are located (upper right corner). These 2 diodes, control the current to the rectifier board. If they fail, current will continue to back feed to the board and burn the resistor. It took me 3 weeks to...

Can you take a pic? Interested in seeing it.

Fram c1125pl for fuel and Fram CH6pl for oil. Put diesel, kerosene, PB blaster, WD40, etc in the cylinder before seafoam. Seafoam has no lubrication and just eats varnish. It won't do anything to lubricate the cylinders from being stuck.

Seems logical, most inverters will pull huge amperage at first to quickly recharge the batteries.

Two 12 volt batteries in series.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but it won't work in the summer months. If you increase the thermostat to 190+ on hot days, the unit just gets to hot and the unit shuts down. The temp the unit shuts down at is 225 and when the thermostat opens at 190 or above, it just doesn't have enough time...

Take a meter and see if you get a reading on the connectors of the voltage gauge to make sure the generator is producing power. No output, no readings.

Haha! I think everyone is stumped at this one. I tried looking through several hundred pictures of different military equipment and can't find anything close. Is that the top that came with the unit or something you found after the fact?

Keep cranking to get all the air out. Sometimes it takes a while to get the air out of the lines. If you start getting a lot of white smoke out and still no crank, the timing of the IP is still off.

I'm 100% sure that is not a 802a top because the radiator vent cut out is way to close to the exhaust. The tops of the 803a and 802a's are different. By that, I mean the opening for the radiator inlet is a lot smaller on the 802a's.

Mine would fully engage, but I believe to far. You know when the starter works, the bendix is extended to its full length when starting? I believe the problem comes because the bendix is not able to extend fully, it's being stopped on the flywheel or flywheel housing, causing the starter to...

I've had particular genset's that would eat the Type 2 starters up within a limited amount of time. I had to go back to the old style and they work perfect. But I have installed several Type 2's on others that work just fine. After examining the sets where I had problems, I believe the starters...

Are you talking about the high pressure rubber line that goes to the injector pumps? You can cut the metal crimp (metal cap as you put it) off with a dermal, then take a standard hose and hose clamp to connect them to the hard line. Basically just think of the metal caps as standard hose clamps...

Welcome from West Tennessee!

The transfer switch on the trailer, just uses 2 large contact relays to transfer power from the generators to the load. The contact relays are just like what is used in the generator. No matter what, he should be able to generate power to the lugs anytime.

I know this may seem dumb but did you hit the AC interrupter switch to closed? You can think of it as the "breaker" for the lugs.

Yes U1-1 with 230 starting amps. I also used the original hold down bolts, with a simple hold down that I made from thin angle iron. I wanted to make it simple for the people buying them.

What I did with my six 701a's that I sold, was to replace with 2 lawn mower batteries. I keep the battery tray in place and put a 2x6 treated lumber inside the tray. Then placed the 2 batteries side by side on top of the 2x6. Then you will need to cut a space in the back battery cover to slip...