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My shop has been doing 4L80e conversions for 20yrs in the HMMWV, you need a few more items than what you have listed. My shop is in NorCal….

954’s yes…variable rates No, remember also that if you go Variable rate, you have to have Casted upper spring mount and not the stamped version, MAK equipped trucks have the stamped version.

I’ve had customers buy trucks in HI and ship them back over to the mainland, the cost wasn’t bad at all. as far as truck’s conditions? Like anything, you have to rely on the pics….ive had many many from Yermo that were absolute rust buckets, you have to remember that most of these are USMC...

You dont need a turbo model to go 70mph, the A2 model is a 4 speed with NA motor and is actually quite happy at 70mph and has lower rpm’s than a turbo equipped model due to the gearing, the A2 runs a 2.73 comp to a turbo trucks 3.08.

You didn’t waste anytime getting that roof on, Looks great! Definitely better than sourcing an old rusty 10 series roof.

Your issue is not shocks, your issue is you’re truck has up armored fixed rate HD springs, the fix isn’t shock, shocks dampen your return rate when a spring is compressed, an unloaded M1123 that has MAK springs has no return, the return is felt in your kidneys. You need to go back to the...

That’s a Luverne BG

Guys, this is a rare occurrence, most of you have never even heard of this sort of thing happening let alone hearing of an owner experiencing this failure, just dangle a pair of needle nose from your rear view mirror, or better yet for all the guys who like clutter in the cab, install a small...

sorry, misunderstood when you said you didn’t have a truck…

If you don’t own a truck, why do you care where they go? But here goes, they go on the casted frame support On the rear/front cross member where the rear radious rods attach. A long 1/4-20 bolts passes through, 2 cushion clamp holds the brake cable to prevent chaffing the cable on the lower...

A rag into the intake won’t necessarily kill the engine…I’ve literally tested that theory by accident on several occasions, unbeknownst to me

Nothig should be “grabbed“ from the 200amp, pull your 12v load either off the rear battery and fuse what ever your taking, or the factory Has already provided you the means for both 12 and 24v on the accessories panal behind the battery box with fuses that are waiting for you. The need for 12v...

DS4‘s are NOT inherently more prone to run aways, I work on them to in the H1’s since 1999, owned more H1’s than i can remember, never had a problem with any DS4 in the shop…PMD failure? Yes…but thats a dead motor, not a run away.

remind me not to ride in your trucks, over 30yrs as a Diesel mechanic and till that day, never had or seen a runaway diesel, this includes god knows how many diesel Generators i have worked on. and a reminder, this “runaway” as you call it was not due to what Normally causes a runaway diesel...

I love Monday morning QB’s

ummmm, shifting it to reverse will decimate your park pawl at just 1/2mph

shifting into park isn’t the issue…it’s at wide open throttle till you get the motor off, left in gear and foot mashed on the brakes gets it down to a manageable rpm’s

you will never get the clips on if the motor is in the truck, it’s a nightmare. order 3.5mm Diesel fuel rated slip on fuel hose, it has a yellow strip on the outside, I’ve used this for 20yrs in my shop...

The reason TACOM continued to put out contracts for different PCB’s and EESS’s was because they couldn’t keep the failure rates down to an acceptable level, it wasn’t till the S3 development that they finally developed a box with an acceptable level of MTF. The box you have was of limited...

Any diesel can become a runaway, one way is severely excessive blow by and a saturated CDR, the excess oil can combust as part of the fuel it needs to operate. This is rare as rare comes…