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I certainly wasn't suggesting anything that was $300 (that's what the scalpers are raping people for the old pot metal NOS junk handles S&S used). I'm sure the same scalpers are getting $300 for the Trimarks by tossing them up on their sites as "super rare LMTV door handles". LOL. The new...

Rgr all. Most of the time, when someone does that they go to the dark side and start charging other community members 2000x the cost of the part. Because <insert reason about supply, demand, cost of renting a warehouse or junk yard, blah, blah, blah>. I tend to favor the $50 civilian...

What was in your A1R when you got it?

They are used by the US army and USMC. Basically, an MRAP at the end of the day.

Just out of curiosity, are you running motor oil or ATF in the trans now?

^this It's a fairly simple mod to upgrade to a A1R-type handle. I bet almost half of the A0 trucks out there have or had broken handles. The old style are simply a poor design for the angle of pull combined with the amount of force used to open the door (ie: it's a weak "handle"...period)...

The polarity protection box can safely be deleted. When they fail, a lot of people do so.

Right at the NATO port is where S&S/BAE installed the battery disconnects on later models. No key though, just a switch.

Yeah, I'm going to take a stab at it just because I need three sets of bushing for my A1R cab. I think I can justify the expense in my case (not so much that I want to do it but there simply are no other alternatives). I don't mind paying a fair price for something someone actually makes, but...

Which TM? Heh I suck at finding shit in the TM(s).. Searching for "figure 251" or "item 78" = 0/0 results As far as posting pics, in the "compose message" window, just above the window for text are some icons. About mid way is the "Insert Image" button. Then just drop your image into the...

I should probably drop this in it's own thread, but I'm feeling lazy.... Passenger side: Driver side: *you can see my bushings are shot and I'm going to replace them asap (it they all fall out, the cab can actually short out the power connections underneath as per Alex truck shorted out a...

This lil feller? Yeah, has a hole for an Allen head to remove the plug..

Pic?

Do you have a list of the electrical/solar stuff you have there? I'm starting to put together my shopping list...

Sure thing. I snap a few when I get a chance. The cross member that runs up from the airbags that typically "floats" the A0 cab is gone (replaced by a brace bolted along the aft of the cab). Latch system is the same but relocated a bit if I recall. The cab leveling sensor stuff is also...

It's metal-to-metal by design. There is no OEM bushing/shim material. I tried a small section of rubber hose once but it sawed thru it in a few days. Grease worked better for me, but required reapplication each time I refueled. Getting a rigid-mounted cab on the A1R solved the squeak...

Yeah, it's a 50-footer 6/3 8/1 I think. I only use it to land the spare genset on the trailer (my diesel genset is off the truck but will be hardwired). I'm only pulling 120v to the hab. It's just overkill and way too heavy and bulky to lug around/stow. I can easily drop to a 30" 30a cord...

Yeah, I covet the big windows. But I'd only want the four (the 5th one would interfere with my shower). I may come back later and do larger windows on one side. I keep reminding myself that I don't spend that much time in the hab when I camping (cooking and sleeping is about it). So...

Cab bushings are a bit of a chore. Especially the driver side. Removing the grill helps. When I do mine, I'll likely drop the bumper, too (it's easy if you have a buddy to help once it's unbolted). Lots of "how too" threads on cab bushings. Lot's of tricks to get it done. I'm not sure if...

On my first A0 I just kept a small tube of grease in the cab. Every time I purchased fuel I would put a dab of grease on the tab/ears. It worked as long as you remembered to do it.