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Rgr all.
What I *really* want is the ability to engage and disengage a mechanical locker. But that seems to be beyond the scope of technology somehow for these trucks. What I don't want are fulltime locked diffs front and rear (or even just rear, honestly).
Found a company that sells those:
https://lifesizestatue.com/military-statues-c-91_53/american-soldier-statue-6-ft-p-85.html
They also sell what looks like maybe a lifesize Marine
https://lifesizestatue.com/military-statues-c-91_53/marine-in-action-statue-p-91.html
And a pilot...
I've been stuck before and had people say "you're not in four-wheel-drive" to which I reply "it's not a four-wheel-drive truck" which always results in a puzzled look. Heh
Something GeoPen and I briefly discussed a couple years ago came to mind the other day as I was driving. As I understand...
I just used a couple coats of Flexseal on any exposed foam. I don't really expect any water to ever get past my seals, but did it for good measure. All the inserts are gasketed and sealed with a black marine silicone (forget the brand offhand). And when I paint the truck, everything will get...
Nothing fancy. Just taps into the inside shower's supply. The hose disconnects and stows inside the hab for now (but later will go in the aft under bed box on that side). It stuck too far into the shower area, so I cut a 5/8" ring to stand it out a bit. It's coated in bed liner and looks...
Added my dawg washer.
I've sealed all holes that I cut in the hab with Flexseal.
Honestly, spray bed liner would have worked. Best I can tell, they are the same product (one just cures harder).
Cut, sealed, and mounted the fridge vents.
The upper one has 200mm 12v exhaust fan...
Yep, the main tank drain will remain plugged until needed. The temporary down spouts will both have caps with screen.
I'm also screening the two vents behind the fridge.
The plan for the hot water pre-heat loop is this:
The system is basically a closed loop. Since no water is being released from the system, the main pump won't come on to circulate water thru the loop/heater.
Adding a solenoid diverter valve and a small pump to the loop should do the trick...
Got everything under the counter up to the actual level it will be assembled. Added my hot water return from the shower (missing the check valve), added cutoffs for the sink lines (yeah, that one red handle on the blue line triggers my OCD). LOL
Went ahead and cramped the assembly together...
For "above the fill line" stuff (like the drop in, you can get away with it. But anything below surface level should be glued in place (or welded if a metal tank).
Both the grey and black tanks given to me for the build have soft seal grommet-type inputs on the upper face of the tanks.
Thanks.
Yeah the drawing is pretty rough obviously and that previous picture was just a mockup. The tank strainer is before the pump (in this pic you can almost see it center/far right tucked behind that outlet silencer loop on the wall, but it's on the pump inlet feed). Most all of the...
Man, those little plastic check valves are junk. Snapped on in half just handling the section of PEX that it was installed in "No problem, I'll just order another pair". Then I snapped the second one in half just picking up the other 12" run.
So off to fetch some nice sturdy brass check...
Starting to lay out my pex runs....
Need to strap the main water tank
Need to run in a temp 12v and 24v
Need to cut the two vents for the fridge
Need to cut out rear external water outlet (outside shower/hose)
Need to cut out the three drain holes (tank, sink, shower)
Fish are calling and my...
Not mine, of course....
" Up armor camper the hole thing is covered in 3/16 AR plate has a big cam Cummins 400 and a Eaton road ranger 18 speed, 4 wheel steer 8 wheel drive I have a lot of parts to go with it spare bearing and seals for the axles and replacement parts for the motor and 3in...