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One guy I worked with was an above average producer and all-around helpful guy, but couldn't read. He was expert at hiding it. Several times I found a catalog page for him when he was trying to tell the boss he needed to order a tool for the shop. I never let him know that I knew though.

It's likely that for some reason you don't have enough exciter field current. It could be a lot of things. I'd start with checking the diodes on the A4 board (in box under output lugs). If they're OK, I'd check the resistances of the windings of CVT1 against the resistances in the -34 manual...

You might consider writing clear and simple step by step instructions on how to go to generator power during an outage. I did that a few years ago, and got my wife and kids to practice the procedure a couple times. They keep the instructions handy, and use them. I was out for an hour or two...

I was glad to hear the success story. The resistor, R11, was definitely overheated and badly discolored, so it needed replacement. I just checked its resistance for fun once I got it out of the board, and it was within an ohm or two of its 330 ohm nominal value. That's a tribute to modern...

It would seem that there is something mechanically wrong with the speed switch or the mechanism that's driving it.

If you jumper just the terminals on the switch, it should tell you if it's the switch or the wiring.

It looks like it prevents backfeeding relay K3 through R1 (on diode board) when the generator is running. I woudn't have thought that could happen though. I wonder if the starter disconnect switch has something strange going on. Try shorting out its terminals and cranking the generator...

The starter solenoid on the motor should have a contact that makes it go from pull-in (high current) to hold (lower current) once its core pulls in. If the hold coil or connection is broken, then it would pull in, and with nothing to hold it, release, then the contact would close and it would...

Jimmy, no need to pay since it's guaranteed for at least two years. I don't argue about what caused the failure, and I may make changes to prevent future damage from a failed CVT1 based on your experience, so it'll help both of us.

It's T1 that supplies power through CR8 CR9 and CR10 to that resistor. If something caused the 18v zener diode CR6 to fail shorted, R11 could overheat. I suppose that if the control winding in CVT1 shorted to another winding, it could have put current into that control loop and caused the...

The peak is likely to be at least five times the running current, from measurements I've done.

That's why I asked if it was cyclic or random. Cyclic points toward an unstable control loop, so reducing the feedback constant by adjusting the pot could help. Random would make me look for a loose connection or bad solder joint somewhere.

See if turning down the sensitivity pot helps. I labeled it "transient response" on the board, and it's the pot next to the voltage adjust pot. Normally you don't need to adjust that pot from where I set them during test, but your generator may have a little too much "uniqueness". The second...

Is the instability cyclic, or random?

I wouldn't want to be on the downhill side of a ramp with a 1,300 lb generator on a pallet jack above me. Maybe use a rope wrapped around something a couple turns to ease it down, capstain style.

That's an ordinary pressure gauge, so any type you like that fits and has a reasonable scale will work fine.

Any decent pressure gauge with the right fitting will work fine if you're not trying to stay 100% original.

Or at least the running current if you don't have "peak-hold" on your clamp-on meter, since starting current comes and goes very quickly

UPSs have arbitrary alarm settings like that. Some are programmable to any voltage you like. I had one that occasionally beeped when on generator power, probably as things like the well pump started. That one has a menu system and I was able to adjust the low voltage alarm lower to make it...

As far as I know, offroad diesel is normal fuel with dye in it, with no other difference. Nothing I've read contradicts this, except some Internet guessing that offroad diesel is not low-sulfur. I doubt if it is any different from road diesel, because I doubt that refineries would make...