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Sure... It's a LONG island with a rich history of buried bodies. Coyotes gotta eat, too.

The simple solution is a compass with an S on it, a road map, a couple tanks of fuel, and all of your belongings. *Texas is full, though ;)

It's funny how many of these issues pop up when it gets cold and the batteries often get weak...

btw: our windshields are AS1 compliant it seems, so know the restrictions (DPS sure knows them). https://instamotor.com/blog/window-tinting-laws-50-states

I'm having mine tinted, but down hear in S TX it's hot year round (was in the upper 80's yesterday Jan 2nd). Be sure to check with your state and local laws about having it on the front windshield (some states restrict what can be put on the windshield and front door windows). That said, it...

I'd take a closer look at that shop before making any quick judgements. And have you seen all the other custom work that went into that build as well as the end result? More like "German engineering". :)

Mine is a 2008 A1R and has whatever they were using in the final versions. It has two digits in the viewer if that's what you are asking "NN" "77" "RR" etc. I've never seen one of these trucks that didn't have two digits on the controller face.

*political restrictions may apply ;)

Simple The US version has the crank mechanism off to the side. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KY1DCQL/

No, but they may have not mentioned it because I had them at gunpoint. Stick with what works, I always say.... ;p

I was told by a mod that we can in fact type "eBay" in here. No need for the e-smay stuff. And I was told by a mod we can even post auction links as long as we did not discuss actual *bids*.

On mine (and the drawing): 14g brown is the sensor loop 14g wht is the heat element loop Red and blk 18g make up battery01 Wht and grn 18g make up battery02 I don't see any reason that you couldn't use 18g on all. Colors could vary I guess (SHC made millions of these battery packs)...

I'm loading a transport here in a few hours, but I'm going to make up a set of leads for my second heater this week. Will advise if all works.

I used the connector that Profo posted in the below link. Perfect fit for my SHC60. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/making-your-own-shc-35-battery-pack-this-helps.206656/ The 1st and 3rd images are correct (and match the 4th drawing). And thanks for that 1st pic. I totally forgot...

I'm no electronics wiz by any means. I've let a LOT of smoke out of things. How is this really different than OEM (you just delete one battery on the 24v side in your img). The 12v gremlins (always lurking) would stull suck on that second 12v house battery the way you have it drawn?

Needs LS swap. So saithe the Internet.... ;P

You'd be correct. The 100amp alt is no match for four 6TLs,Hawkers, etc. Interestingly, the Niehoff dual voltage do not put out the same amps to both 12v and 24v rails. 100amp = 24v 100amp/12v 60 amp 260 amp = 24v 260amp/ 12v 140amp So when the 12v gremlins suck on a 100amp truck...

OH......btw It won't start if the sensor is over 80 degrees if I recall. I had to wait six months to start trouble shooting mine. LOL It's been in the 80's here all week with another round of 80's forecast until the weekend so I'm not missing the heater (but I couldn't...

18 beeps is the temp sensor

As long as there is a little fuel in the bowl, it will prime and cycle thru the startup. It has no pressure detection (being gravity fed, no pressure to measure). The number of beeps tells the code of course. Do you have the TM for it?