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One problem I see is that the Flight Systems SX460 manual shows terminal XX to be the negative field terminal. The only way I see that one or both breakers could trip is if the SX460 already failed. From the Manual: "To flash the field, the generator must be stopped and the field leads...

I really need to see a wiring diagram of what you have before I start recommending components or giving advice about why the 5A breaker tripped. When the generator is running properly, there should be 240VAC between L1 and L3, and 120VAC between each one and L0. As I remember, that...

That's why I suggested limiting the flash current with a resistor like the original circuit did. I get the impression you're connecting 12VDC directly to the exciter field, but maybe I'm wrong. I have no idea how much current is needed to get the generator working, but with a 24v supply, the...

I wonder if the regulator doesn't like being suddenly disconnected by the relay contacts when it's trying to supply current to the exciter field. Flight Systems said their regulator shoudn't need to have the field flashed, since residual magnetism is enough to get things started. Maybe this...

What does your present flashing circuit look like? Is it as original, with 24v being applied through a 56 ohm resistor?

The problem you're describing is with the AC part of the system. The DC regulator is for battery charging.

I had forgotten just how cold the manual says it has to be before you need the cold setting of the intake shutter! So Ike, your statement that MD never gets cold enough to need it stands as correct, based on my 50 or so years in MD. Sorry I doubted you. :) I bet everything has to be just...

I don't know about never, Ike... just almost never. I remember a couple mornings when I lived in Bethesda, when I went to go to work and it was below 0°F. One time it was -10 and the starter of my Vega wouldn't spin the engine with the 20W50 oil I had in it until I warmed the block for a while.

It's not cold enough in MD to be thinking about changing that air intake lever to the cold weather position, although I can understand wanting it to be working properly.

I'm sure that'll work fine, RS. I posted about the DC-DC converter for Herbert, when he said he was thinking of using a transformer to step down 24VDC.

I just started my 003A and ran it for a few minutes to be sure I could. They say the snow and ice pellets will turn to freezing rain here tonight.

If you're trying to get from 24VDC to 12VDC, look for a DC to DC converter with the right current capability and input and output voltages for your application. There are very inexpensive ones available these days from various electronics suppliers and auction sites.

The 002A and 003A were designed for some serious conditions. One feature is that if the AC regulator fails, the generator continues to put out power. If lightly loaded, the voltage may be high, but communications systems and many other electrical devices can tolerate the 10%-20% overvoltage...

There's no extra cost for custom voltage settings. I build the regulators myself, and set them to the desired voltage during testing, so it's no more difficult to choose one voltage than another, within the allowable range of the circuit. The regulators are not a fast selling product, so I...

I have to set the voltage before potting, and once it's potted, there's no going back. Really though, if I set it for 27.6, it'll work fine for flooded batteries too. I make a similar regulator for motorcycles, and set them to 13.7-13.8 so they can be used with AGMs or flooded batteries, and...

Generally around 28-28.5-ish in my experience. I'm not trying to sell you something you don't need, but I can set the regulators I make at a custom voltage before potting.

No special advice, just attack them one at a time and find the problems. JimC on this board sells kits to replace the gauges with new digital ones that fit the cutouts, so that is an option if the ones you have are bad.

Sounds like a great ides, Hard Head... Heat the building while testing.

Ed, what did you have to do to get it working? Yes, from what I've read here, the breaker could be bad. They are an unusual design, described in one or more threads on this board, none of which I can quickly point you to. Some searching should turn up the information. The other possibility...

After the previous post I searched a little and found them offered at $75 each. I'd find something else that would do the job, but that's just me.