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Like cuad4u, I use group 24 batteries. Mine are Walmart "Everstart Maxx", which is what was cheap when I needed them. Since it's a 24v system, it's not as demanding on batteries as you might think. Mine have been in service for about four years, and haven't shown any problems. I do...

I feel the same way, but I'm a dinosaur too. The world is progressing toward operators of equipment not needing to know anything about how the equipment works. Modern cars are a good example. This makes it easy to find an operator, since he doesn't need any significant training, but it also...

I think you need a new cam and lifters, or a used matching set as you suggested. That one will fail and put a bunch of iron filings in the engine as it does. You probably know, but if you use the ones you have in the other engine, keep the lifters and cam lobes together, rather than mixing...

Great that it's running now! White vapor may indicate you didn't run the glow plugs long enough before cranking.

Isn't the fitting that contacts the filter spring loaded so it will seal on both filters?

Delk's Surplus maybe?

A diesel can be converted to use the "fogging" system I described halfway easily, but the engine would still need to retain all the original parts like the diesel fuel tank and injectors. Obviously the spark ignited gaseous fuel engines are just that... gaseous fuel only. And of course the...

Probably a system that mixes fuel gas (propane or CNG) into the air going into the diesel engine. Injected diesel fuel then ignites the gas and they burn together. I'm pretty sure a stock 701A is not designed to do this.

(oops, accidental post)

Congratulations on having a great running 803! Putting out 120% of rated load without tripping anything is not a problem you need to fix. :beer:

Doesn't the 803A have four output lugs like the 003A? On the 003A there's L0, which is neutral, then L1, L2, and L3, which are the three phases when in 3-phase mode.

My 003A has a pretty clean sine wave output. Next time I have the house running on it, I'll try to get a photo of my old analog scope's display.

Must not be too old, since that's a modified square wave too. It's the old ones with big heavy transformers in them and TO-3 transistors bolted to the outside that were real square wave inverters. They work OK too, but not so great for induction motors. The only thing I can think of that...

Nice scope traces, thanks. I always thought that "modified sinewave" was a very optimistic term for that type of inverter. They're still better than the old square wave ones though. Is your Briggs and Stratton unit a straight motor-generator type, or is it an inverter type?

It might be worth asking if they can help you with that price a bit. I once bought a propane fork lift starting battery, and just for asking, I got the "net" price that took it from something like $120 to $80.

The closeup photo of the data plate shows 0.5 kW. It's a small, cute generator. It's very unusual to see overhead valves in a tiny 1.5 hp engine, too.

Maybe you'll come out OK in the end. Green Mountain is charging $2,399.00 each, and their site says that's a sale price.

I can't help directly, but while it still stinks, smell the various compartments and the generator itself, one at a time, and see if you can determine which one smells worst. Then use a flashlight to try to locate compent(s) that look like they overheated. Doing this immediately after the...

That sounds like normal charging. The more the battery is discharged, the longer you'll see high numbers like 5.2 amps or more. Once it's fully charged, you'll see only the current it takes to run the fuel pumps and other 24v control system parts.

Right after starting, the current will be about as high as it can get. As the battery charges and gets close to the regulator output voltage, the current will taper off until it reaches the level that the control circuit, fuel pumps (etc.) use. If you start the engine with the charging fuse...