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Definitely use a good support and another backup support to be sure. I got myself trapped in one of my fork lift cylinders a few years ago, when its support slipped. My index fingers and thumbs of both hands were caught, but luckily my father and wife were home and freed me. A few stitches...
It's a good article, but the advice it gives about regulators is not correct, as it applies to the MEP-002A and MEP-003A. In these generators, running the engine below operating speed lowers the generator output, and the regulator sees this and tries to raise it by lowering its output current...
Yes, he could certainly do it that way. I check mine by taking out the fuse and putting the meter leads on the two solder tabs on the fuse holder, so no tools are required if the fan shroud is off. And if it's on, you can get at the current from the fuse cap side easily enough.
In post #18 I pretty much explained how to measure the current. You configure the meter for reading current (amps), break the charging circuit somewhere, and reconnect it with the ammeter leads. Then when you have your answer, you put things back the way they were. You'll probably need to...
What's the output current of the charging system? You can measure it at the fuse pretty easily by taking it out and putting the ammeter leads on the two solder tabs on the fuse holder. If the fan shroud is on, you can probably take off the fuse cap, put the fuse back in without the cap, and...
The fuel pump suggestion is a good one. I've heard that the RF noise suppression capacitors on them can fail and short. You can disconnect the capacitors and see if that helps.
If it's readable, yes. If not, the -34 TM has a similar one. All the wires are labeled well, so you can trace them by reading the labels, although it can be a little tedious.
Any chance one or more of your rotating diodes is bad? That seems unlikely, since you're getting high voltage when manually flashing, but I wonder if you've checked.
What you said does not sound likely. As I said, I believe that sending flashing current through the exciter field, then cutting it off while switching it to the regulator with the relay is a problem. Are you sure you've disconnected all the other wiring from the field circuit, so that it's...
In your system, the regulator is connected directly to the exciter field, and is powered from the output lugs of the generator, right? If so, other than your flashing circuit, there's nothing else connected that could cause the failure of your regulator.
As I said before, if a breaker trips, the regulator has already failed. There's no way it should draw that much current if it's working right.
I doubt it, but that's a question for the manufacturer.
If you try it again, use a Schottky diode across the field terminals to prevent the spike when it gets disconnected from your flashing circuit as I suggested above. It's obvious which way to connect it, since the wrong way will cause a short circuit. A reasonable diode might be something like...
I don't mean to butt in front of Ike, but it won't hurt the muffler. It will make a lot of smoke for quite a while, and some of it will blow out as well.
I'm currently repainting a motorcycle I bought that was sprayed with Plasti Dip. The problems include poor abrasion resistance, demonstrated by the stuff peeling off in places like the gas tank sides where the rider's knees rub, and by rapid dissolving from any minor amount of spilled gasoline...
The generator's schematic shows F2 as the positive field connection. The SX460 manual shows "X" as positive. This appears to be saying that X should be connected to F2.
I don't claim to know much about the SX460, and I have no idea if all the clones are accurate copies. Also, I've never seen...