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Sorry, phone typo. "Hinged"

Technically it's 2.5 ton carrying capacity, so it's pretty much over capacity even when it's empty. This is why practically every EU adventure truck builder uses 6x6 with higher capacity.

I think it's on the placard for the removal/lift instructions. I snapped a pic of it for someone asking the same. Let me see if I have it...

I picked up another M1082 trailer this week. I've noticed that there are subtle differences in the year models (the rear bumpers, the ladders and how they attach, some have a lock box driver side aft, some don't). But what is this? It looks to be hedged...

Not mine. Ask Adventure Driven or contact ICON

See the post right above it. Those are the ICON's that Seth had made for his M1079. He's on here as "Adventure Driven"

Those are just a basic bypass shock. I've not looked up the NSN but I suspect they are for a light vic. The potential problem with bypass shocks is the location of the bypass related to the mount. Even if they happened to be the right length the "bypass can" could be off 90 degrees and...

There are a few folks on the LMTV FB group who have them.

Andy sent me his used one and it resolved my issue so I never looked beyond that...

Measuring on a spare in the garage gets me the same 17.5" but again, just using a tape. And again, you really need to have one of these to look at or the CAD files. The stand-off bolts are counter-sunk into the face One section of the inside wall is cut out to allow for the air lines There...

Sure, but as I said up thread...this is *not* enough info to do a die. You need several additional dimensions to make the cover. The only important number that you requested in the center-to-center of the standoff bolt locations. You *absolutely* should double check this by simply measuring...

Too thick to be spun. These are stamped...

Well, the four holes for the stand offs are wheel bolts. You're going to need a few more dimensions than that, though (unless you were to just be cutting flat discs). You need cover depth, angles inboard and outboard where it folds down back into the rim, the counter-sink at the stand off...

I've been told that mud was a huge pita with the wheel covers (but I've yet to get in anything but sand with them). IMO, a flat "ring" with openings around the edge, wide open in the center, and ample stand-off won't hold much if any mud. Remember, these only have to cover the air hoses and...

Agreed. A small piece of tube that butts up against protector is the ideal. You could simply slip a sleeve over the coupling or just tack a small peice of tube to the outboard end of the coupling. I looked all over for a round tube that was threaded 5/8 inside but couldn't locate anything...

Yep, exactly what I'm talking about. Thanks for the better image.

Exactly Here's an OEM bolt (really just a hollow threaded tube) next to the civilian solution (thread coupler and a bolt).

Sure. I'm just saying that a cosmetic solution is simple. It's when you go to the heavy steel that it requires the heavy die to stamp these out. The cheep/easy/fast solution for physically protecting the CTIS is to simply get one of the *hundreds* of manufacturers (or anyone with a CNC...