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Ok. Some prices for comparison. I changed it to $$ and gallons. UNfortunately, the $$ took a dive again; in June one Eur bough you $$ 1.20, today its $ 1.40. 15W 40 .. $ 11.4 per gallon (11 Euro per 5 liters) GL5 80W 90.. $ 17.6 per gallon (3.5 Euro per liter) 10W .. $ 20.8 per gallon (4 Euro...

:oops::oops: Eee, I only drained the big crankcase sump behind the front differential. That might explain a lot

Multifuel LSD 465 A1 from 1973. It was idling for about 20 minutes to heat the oil and also to check some things with the dump unit. The engine area looks oiled, maybe from a sealing of the drive shaft, have to check. Did not check fter idling and before the oil drain ( I know, I should...

Just started my first oil change. Oil level when bought and after some idling and colling down shows a bit above minimum. No danger, just this level "maybe next week or so I should add some". Drained the oil as prescribed, after some idling and cooling down a bit. Only about 5 liters came out...

As to the engine, most seem to agree with you that simple 15W 40 will do the job nicely. Drive train is clear, if I can get the stuff cheaper I will use the 80W90 That seems to be the point with the most variations, especially regarding the power steering. I think I can get 10 W oil, and off...

OK, please tell me that I am wrong and misunderstood the US volume scales and conversion from quarts to liters (or give me a good address to a loan shark). :wink: Following the Lubrication Order, my 1973 M51A2 needs - about 21 liters of oil for the engine itself - about 28 liters of...

The pintle is not allowed in Europe, only for nato military vehicles. Standerd EU coupling looks like this don't know the english name for it. They range from small (up to 3.5 tons) to big, certified for 50 tons or more. More on that in my other thread on that topic

It looks the dump body turns on hinges fixed to the subframe, as do the hydraulic cylinders. The subframe is bolted to the main fraim with only 6 bolts per side. Four below the hinges (picture one) and two what looks like a spring connection at the front (picture 2). That makes taking the...

Yep, when test-driving it I did not notice the free play too much, just busy getting it around the corner. However, driving it this morning on the normal road I noticed this as serious problem. The Dutch DOT people also said I can have a maximum of 30 degrees play in the steering, and I have...

I was just facinated by that option, would not try it, and you need to dry the filter quite long I would imagine. Anyway, I also think it's about bloody time to replace all fuel, air, and oil filters and all lubricants anyway. As far as I know, nobody did that since 1986.

:jumpin::-P:mrgreen: Ok, failed the Dutch DOT inspection, as expected. But the people gave me the list of what should be done to get it fixed AND without problem get fully Dutch registration and even historic license plates. And I drove 15 miles with it, speed increasing from 30 until I...

I have this funny operating manuel booklet. It mentions there as one option that you can also wash your filter with some detergent. Does that still hold true and if yes, how long should you dry it? My filter says it was made in 1986, inside is still white but from the outside the dust and sand...

When test driving on a straight road, I can move - turn the steering wheel about 5 to 10 inches in free play, without anything happening. Is that normal? If not, how to correct for that.

OK, dumped the swamp !! :) The oil presure gage was a lose contact. Did about five miles driving four times up and down a straight road today, shaking and noise like ****. Maxabout 30 mph, did not dare to push harder yet. The biggest surprise was that, after we figured out all the knobs and...

Most important, I sometimes know when to shout for help. Yesterday I had a friend of me there. She is skipper/owner of a 65 feet tjalk (my brother had a 50 feet one). This is a 101 year old sailing barge used for transporting goods through the Dutch waters and accross the waddensea and baltic...

They have lots of them sitting there. Most go to Africa, but America is possible as well. If I don't forget, I'll get you some prices.

Thanks, that's a relief. We spent a day on getting some stuff and make a first check. Commerce does old army stuff. Turns out he does the European stuff, his brother in the south of the Netherlands the US stuff. So I bought a pair of Nato standard batteries. The real ones, boy are they heavy...

If you want - need real Tatra parts, I can look here in teh Czech Republic, but is would cost you shipping though. If the upgrades are special gadgets, not manifactured by or occasionally appearing on Czech or at least European Tatra's, I cannot help.

OK Some detail pics 1 The biggest rust problem: passenger door and hole in exhaust stack 2 Aux tank lid, but no corrosion inside 3 main tank lid, corrosion around the filling hole 4 Tire: US Army REOR 5 Brand new, but how old 6 oily grease: hydraulics from steering system?

Want to change the fuel filters and clean the tanks before starting it. Very hard to restrain myself, just waiting to hear it roar for the first time and see it dump the swamp.