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The problem with those is first there is very little room on top of the engine to even mount one and second the balance point is actually on top of the cowl directly in front of the windshield, I only use the rear lifting eye. I used to have a large version of this to pull the engines out of...

I have one and it works perfectly, it can be had with a tool kit that everyone that works on HMMWVs should have...

Have you tested the batteries? with a good set of relatively charged batteries the voltage should not change, the alt should produce enough at idle to reach the 28.2V or so that it normally charges at. Checking all grounds is a good idea on any truck This is a 200A alt? Have you checked the idle...

The tach uses the A The tach uses the AC terminal from the reg. for the RPM input, if the alt is not charging the tach will not work. Put a VOM on the batteries or alt output and see what is really going on, curious if you hold high RPMs does it go back to green?

This entire thread is just an exercise in theory, I am not sure what the OPs motivation is as he did not ever say. I actually realized another scheme that would make it appear to be rectified (as you pointed out with the "blocking" in one direction when testing the phase cable and still...

An automotive alternator makes AC, (three phase AC actually) that is why it is called an alternator and not a generator, it then needs to be rectified into DC this can be done inside (most modern alternators) or outside of the alternator.

What is the difference?

Yes but the regulator circuit would still look much like the 14V example above. That three phase half wave signal is not very useful as it is, it still must be regulated, combined and filtered.

In the alternator it would look like this, it would require a WYE three phase stator, not the DELTA stator shown. I have never seen a WYE stator used in automotive applications because the DELTA configuration is much more efficient but I suppose they were not too concerned about the efficiency...

After reading the guide again they are employing a type of rectification on the 14V stator, this would be half wave rectification which can be regulated in the same manor as AC in the 14V example above using SCRs , so technically they are rectifying "internally". I apologize for my error.

This is probably close to what is going on with the 14V side of the alt On the 28V side the reg controls the field winding to control the 28V output on the 14V side it uses SCRs (or something similar) to regulate the 14V output independent of the 28V output. The phase cable takes the three phase...

This is what is "going on with the 28V stator, the diode drawn between the +28 output terminal and ground represents the 6 diode rectifier, if you use an ohm meter connected to the +28 output terminal and ground (the case) you will see conduction in one direction only just like the single diode...

That drawing is more representative than actual as the upper stator is not shown complete as there must be more rectifiers on the upper stator to produce DC, I assume the phased harness is used so the 14V source can be rectified and regulated independently from the 28V output. It takes 6 diodes...

There is already It is highly unlikely that is the only bad component.

A couple generalizations about low compression, if you disconnect the power from the IP and crank the engine and have say one bad cylinder you can usually hear it "speed up" as the cadence changes as that cylinder starts its compression stroke and it would normally smoke all the time not just...

Instead of pulling all the injectors and glow plugs just break each injector line loose one at a time until the knock stops, then you will know which injector needs attention, try all the easy stuff before going through the trouble of doing a comp check, as stated above plugged cats are very...

White smoke is not necessarily over fueling, it is unburned fuel as there is a difference, your glow plugs/EESS are likely at fault. You also need a good set of batteries especially when it is cold.

Those were originally rubber well nuts IIRC

You also may be able to remove the QD from the fan clutch and screw the hose directly into the brass adapter. If it were me I would try and install it without the QD if possible as stated before the QD was fitted to make it easier to remove the hose to change the fan belts when they were V...

If you look up the part number, FF3323-0706-259 or 4730014934656 you can find the specs, I see HPG is out of them. https://nationalstocknumber.info/part-number/ff3323-0706-259_01-493-4056 It appears to be a AN-6 to 11/16-18 O ring This might be what you are looking for, but don't hold me...