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I grok the definition between LMTV and FMTV. Was just thinking about drive shaft angles. Didn’t realize that the 6x6 used different mount points for the axles. Oh well, another theory shot.

Ok, stupid question: why can’t a FMTV intermediate axle be used as a rear axle in a 2-axle LMTV to reduce the drive shaft angle, assuming that air pressure is used to engage the power divider all the time? Is there some fitment that wouldn’t work?

Even a 10% increase in effort still puts it well below what an M35 driver has to deal with. The original definition or “Armstrong Steering”. I remember well the agony of driving my old truck. The LMTV is so much better.

D1 is the fault code position. 21 is the main code, 12 the subcode. According to this (http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/HE/HeavyEquipmentTech/2013-09-22_223029_allison_transmission_md3060_trouble-shooting.pdf) for WTEC II (same code for III), you've got a Throttle Position Sensor failed or out...

If my experiences with my RV's Allison transmission are similar enough to yours, you might have a sensor-related problem. There's three sensors feeding input into the TCU. If any one of them go wonky, the TCU will "lock" the trans into the lowest normal gear so you can move, but that's all it'll...

What changed between Start #1 and Start #2? Batteries? Sounds like you've got more than one with bad cell or shorted internally?

Update: Searching for "3116 aneroid governor" I found a decent writeup on turning up the fuel on the Caterpillar 3116: https://www.justanswer.com/heavy-equipment/1xedq-3116-cat-engine-dump-truck-turn-power.html There's three things to do: 1. Block the aneroid line that feeds air pressure into...

aneroid makes sense. Pressure sensing valve. Thanks much!

Thanks for the info, something to add to potential mods on my truck!

Well, the brass valve on the PCU has been checked and swapped, so I just ordered a set of filters, though the order may take a few days. I'm going to double-check the wheel valves, I may have tested them while the CTIS was pressuring the tires. But that's an easy test... Thanks for the info...

OK, not 100% operational as hoped. From HWY, if I select XC or SAND, get about 30-40 seconds of pressure coming heavily from both QRVs underneath (verified by crawling underneath and checking both). After the 30-40 seconds, HWY and XC lights come on steady. Press XC or SAND again, another 30-40...

I think that the ECU, when it first powers up looks at the pressure transducer even before there's air pressure. That's why my ECU was throwing a fault whether I was using the engine compressor or shop air to supply air. With the engine compressor, it'd take a minute or two for pressure to come...

PM me. I've got my old parts

The turbo and the "android valve" and the mods to that please!

Oh yeah! The door handles and locks. Also the interior door panels to match.

If you're not getting +120 psi, you may not get the pressure switch to close. The screw on the compressor turns counter-clockwise to increase pressure. But bypassing the pressure switch should fool the ECU into continuing, unless something else like the transducer is whacked. The pressure...

Rear air brake chambers changed in 1997 into 1998.

Jinx...

The pressure transducer is not a simple switch, it translates the actual air pressure to a voltage. But you can't test it without some specialized equipment - think pressure vs. voltage curves, charts, a test cell. Or the LMTV electronic test tools, if you are so lucky. This is how the CTIS...

According to Spicer's TFM: "Check for continuity between PCU connector pin A and ECU harness connector J, PCU pin B and ECU pin b (lower case), and PCU pin C and ECU pin c (lower case). Also, check for short circuits in the PCU harness pins A to B, B to C, and C to A". Later in the test you...