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Have you tried putting the transfer case in 4lo or HL?
The trans itself is as I said fairly simple, if it has fluid and a clean filter but will not pull it is probably a mechanical issue you are not going to be able to resolve.
I think the reason we all went for the 4L80 is because I think this...
That is the "passing" valve, it would have a switch on the IP that would send voltage to it at WOT and would have nothing to do with your problems.
There is nothing electronic about the 3L80 as far as pressure control etc.
Sorry, I completely missed the A1 part :eek:
Does it pull in reverse?
The 2-3 valve is in the valve body, you would have to pull the valve body to get access IIRC.
Those things are pretty much bullet proof until they are toast, again was there any metallic or clutch material in the pan?
If you get to the point that you have the pan back on you can unplug the TCM.
With the TCM connected it will try to pull in 1st gear unless you have a problem that is putting the trans in limp mode, with the TCM disconnected it will try to pull in 2nd gear, I have seen a 4L80 that would not pull...
The return circuit does get pressurized by the Cadillac valve to turn the fan off, your clamps must be able to withstand at least 100 PSI
It is possible the Cadillac valve is creating too much back pressure also.
Believe me I am not trying to be harsh but we see this type of thing happen all the time to folks new to the HMMWV world, too bad you did not come here first, you spent allot of money getting to that $.50 fix.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/keyed-switch.219329/#post-2572440
Please look...
Also remember the shunt that is mounted in the battery box is in the negative lead, sometimes folks assume it is positive, it also has connections inside and outside of the battery box.
S and T at the diag port should activate the starter, if not it is the batteries, the starter or the cables.
Check the voltage at T using the block as a ground for the meter while connecting to S if it stays at 24V and the starter does not activate then it is likely a starter/solenoid issue or...
Remember to disconnect the batteries any time you are doing electrical work.
It is also a good idea to pull the harness from the TSU (temp sending unit) on the right side of the water cross over to disable the glow plugs while working on electrical problems until you are actually going to try...
First IMHO the supplemental grounding kit is a "patch" that does not cure bad grounds, because you must disturb some of the original grounds to install the kit some may inadvertently stumble across the real problem they are having and think the kit fixed the problem.
The kit can also cause...
You can probably get away with it, but you must think your labor has no value if you are willing to do the job twice.
As stated above surface prep is key to any sealing job
Do you have an impact driver like this?
This and the correct bit gives you the best chance of removing screws, that and some penetrating oil.
Fortunately if they are in nutserts drilling them out and replacing them is relatively easy.
Cannot speak on the actual job you are doing..
I guess to answer my own question, I did some searching on GP and the R1 trucks with 57XXXX serial numbers are all 4 speed trucks.
I of course I am waiting on the EUC but will be interested to see the rest of it, I assume it will have the 12K hubs etc.
It is interesting they did not give a...
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