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Do this, put your meter on the IGN terminal of the regulator, then check voltage with the fan OFF and then on HIGH with the run switch on, if there is a connection issue there should be a difference in voltage. There is a contactor (relay) in the EESS box that feeds 24V to the fan and regulator...

Yes all diag. should be done with fully charged batteries, it may be the fan is only getting 12.5V also it will run but not at full speed.

That looks more like a Hummer then a Humvee

And since you have no hydraulically controlled fan clutch the cooler would return directly to the reservoir, or directly from the steering gear without a cooler.

Here is a schematic with a winch, not too hard to figure out what it would be like without, but yes there are two returns to the reservoir. Without the winch there is just a single high pressure line going from the hydro-boost to the steering gear.

Only windshield glass is laminated in the auto industry, all side and rear glass is tempered, that is why a side or rear glass shatters into tiny (harmless) pieces when broken. Since tempered glass is usually much more expensive most just go with laminated on the door glass, of course one would...

There is a terminal on the regulator marked IGN, it is the second to smallest stud, the smallest stud is a run indication to the EESS box and for the time being inconsequential. The IGN terminal must have 24V or thereabouts on it or the alt will not charge, it gets the 24V from the EESS box when...

I just measured the last batch I bought and they are 14 1/8" X 20 1/16" these fit perfectly in the 3/8" frames. I did look and found some sources for tempered 5/8 glass and the prices were way out there, around $3-500 EA. If you have some cut check into getting some spares, generally they get...

If removing the inner protective barrier does not work (did not for me) I had the local glass house cut them for me out of laminated glass, this would be a good way to go for 3/8" glass, no idea where you would get the 5/8" as I just converted my sup. armor doors to 3/8. There are several...

First thing is to see if you have exciter voltage going to the IGN. terminal when the run switch is on. REMEMBER any time you are doing electrical work that involves turning the run switch on and off ether disconnect the TSU on the passenger side of the crossover manifold or wait at least 90...

Welcome to the SS forums!!! Nice looking rig!!

Here is a thread with that subject, not sure it will be any help, you are not alone looking for the N3135 https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/now-i%E2%80%99m-scared-fake-n3135-regulators.219523/

Welcome to the SS forums, please take a few minutes to read the forum rules.

Well that should work, sounds like the contactor in the EESS box is bad at least

That looks like a fairly high output alternator, it should not have been wired through the EESS box but directly to the batteries, the EESS box is only marginally capable of handling a 60A alternator. You might want to pop that EESS box open and looksee inside.

You also do not need to start a new thread for every item that comes up on your project, we are all reading your original thread.

Do not do it before replacing the missing CDR valve, you have an open port into the intake, one little nut, washer, etc OR water gets in there you can wreck the engine.

OK I'll play, plus one for williamh Possibly a medical emergency. I rode for decades without a helmet so I can be as stupid as anyone and I would never pull out of my driveway in a Humvee without wearing seat belts, in fact the first thing I do is buy new factory seat belts not knowing what...

The one you are referencing looks like it is not the fording one, if you do not plan on loosing your mind and actually want to take your HMMWV swimming the "regular" one is all you need, much cheaper also.

More fuel https://www.nbc-2.com/article/driver-ejected-humvee-crash-trees-cape-coral/60801150 https://www.fox4now.com/cape-coral/police-say-old-military-humvee-drove-erratically-before-slamming-into-tree-on-surfside-blvd-cape-coral