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Awesome!

Not only not needed, they are notorious for leaking and should have been left off of the later trucks. I actually find it easier to reach in with a wrench and un-thread the original setup than trying to unplug the quick connect.

First things first, figure out why your brake lights are not working, then worry about the turn signals, again you are not likely going to fix the problems by swapping parts you need to actually troubleshoot the issues one by one, otherwise you will probably spend allot of money and still have a...

I moved this to the appropriate forum.

Three men walk into a bar, one from NY, one from CA and the other from TX :ROFLMAO:

Sorry, still need to check all the rims first, it is spring in S TX so ranch work takes president, that and my knees are only allowing a few hours a day to work.

https://www.schwendwaterjet.com/online-store/Mechanical-Keyed-Ignition-Switch-HMMWV-p559308261

Figure out what the issue is first, if the only problem is the relay it can easily be replaced, if the EESS box has other problems (IE glow plug control issues) then a replacement manual box is one good alternative, Milcommoguy sells one

The issue there would be if you forget to turn off the keyed switch the relay/solenoid will drain the batteries, there is a cable to lock the steering wheel that is pretty effective in preventing folks from driving off with your truck.

No they are not marked, heck the gov gets sold chicom crap from time to time, they are very good at making the junk look legit, so yes the only way you can be reasonably sure you are buying the real deal is the dealer you buy it from. Study the schematics and troubleshoot each problem to the...

When it is not charging turn on the heater fan and see if it is working, if not it is likely the EESS (protection) box not feeding exciter voltage to the alt. There is a relay in the box that does that and they can go bad. It is normal for the alt to delay after starting it is called soft start.

The problem to begin with is you are only paying $60 for the turn signal switch, a real one is several hundred dollars. The flasher is sealed but it can be replaced with a 24V civilian one pretty cheaply. But if your brake lights are not working it is likely the turn signal switch, the three...

The problem is the switch would have to be rated at quite a few amps and to be able to interrupt a 24V circuit, that is the issue with using a keyed switch for the start/run switch to begin with.

About a 99% chance they are knock offs, especially given the prices

You have a Command and Recon light armored vehicle? :LOL:

Is it possible you bought a knockoff flasher module? Virtually all "aftermarket" HMMWV electronic parts are crap, unless you bought it from a reputable dealer, Kascar, HPG, MAC Motors or AMG you very likely bought crap. I would have to study the schematics again but I do not believe the turn...

In my case it is nothing like say a late model vehicle that has had the lug nuts over tightened causing the rotors to be warped. It is more of a deep growling that resonates through the body but there is no feeling of pulsation in the pedal, I have checked all the usual suspects for tightness...

My DuraVee has been doing that for the 13,000 miles I have driven it, nothing has come loose or broken yet, I suspect the pads are glazed but never cared enough to change them. As with others it only happens when I heat the brakes up beyond normal driving.

Welcome to the SS forums!

Ether will work fine for you, I use the past because it can fill a 2" gap between the bead and the rim to inflate a tire (common with tractor tires), not an issue with the HMMWV tires, I get mine in 5 gal buckets.