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As long as you keep the 12V load relatively small, 10A or so cont. would be my limit, 20A int The reg. is said to be good for 50A but I would not try it. If you have any large 12V loads use a 24V-12V converter

Your plans sound good so far. Yes it is just that simple, I would use at minimum a #8 wire, although I am not 100% positive you do not need some 12V load to make it work properly.

If a serpentine belt is squealing there is something wrong, if it is squealing when the engine is revved up I would check to make sure it has enough tension, look at the pulley alignment closely, as mentioned before all new HMMWV owners should check all the alt. mounting bolts as that is a VERY...

And someone said those old MTs last forever :LOL:

That does not look like a "real" box, I could be wrong but it looks like an aftermarket box, one never wants to buy an aftermarket part for the Humvee, especially an electronic part. Did the glow plugs take 10MM or 3/8" wrench?

X2 on never use ether. Did you change the TSU, and make sure it matches the EESS box? EDIT, I see you say you replaced the "controller" I assume you meant the TSU What part number is on your EESS box and was it new?

I will need allot more than a simple computer drawing before laying down my hard earned money. Also who would put down a $2000 deposit without knowing what the final cost would be??

IIRC it is a 17mm and an allen not star. But I have slept since then.

Could be plugged converter?

Also remember if you have disconnected the batteries since the last time you drove it and the trans failed to do whatever it is failing to do you erased the codes. Is it just not shifting???

Unplug the TCM and see if it acts normally for that condition, with a good reverse and forward in 2nd gear, if not then there is something mechanical wrong with the trans.

Welcome to the SS forums!!

RCSK17028-3 and/or 252001421458

It is strange that this did not show up earlier unless you had/have the transfer case in HL otherwise the truck should not have gone anywhere, no matter how tight the bolt was it was not going to keep the shaft from turning in the gear, whoever sold you the truck may have put it in HL so it...

OP says the new and old shafts turns inside the input gear so not a washer issue.

Yes if you have a 12K hub an A2 half shaft will bolt up, I have not seen that particular half shaft, the inside CV joint is usually ether perfectly round or triangle shaped, that one is a little different, comparing the splines should tell you, the 12K has a larger dia. splined shaft. I doubt...

Have them inspect the splines on the input gear, also have them pull the magnetic drain plug, if that is a 10K gear and the splines are gone then there would very likely be allot of metal on the drain plug. The picture you posted is a 10K or 7K half shaft, same thing basically.

The hub housings are the same, the only difference is the "input" pinion gear. Do you have a picture of the old left side halfshaft?

Please do as that is just plain weird!

Well the next thing to do is to compare the splines of the old shaft to the new shaft, at least that is all I can think of. Also the inside CV joints look quite different between the 10K and the 12K shafts, you can look at those without having to pull the new shaft.