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What caused the cylinder to crack was GM added piston coolers to the 6.5L engines, if there was significant core shift the tooling that drilled the holes into the oil galleries for the coolers would nick the bottom of the #8 cylinder wall which over time would cause the cylinder to crack.

Some research reveals GM did not install a cat. until the 6.5L came out in 1994, so your 1992 truck should not need to have a cat. This is what the original 6.2L decal would have looked like. I guess you are lucky in one respect, most R1s are given a new serial number and tagged as the year they...

No they would not have installed a cat. it would be rebuilt to M1097A1 specs, the 6.2L was no longer available so they used a 6.5L all other items would be the same as an A1 truck. The GM sticker you are showing looks like a civy truck sticker, all the military engines were exempted AFAIK. You...

What are the tag numbers???, I see another loose wire in the mid left of the picture.

You should have seen the difference in the volt meter. If it charges when cold then drops off as it gets fully warmed up that could be a bad regulator. You may still have poor connections, have you checked the positive connections where it goes through the battery box bulkhead on both sides? The...

The gaskets for the fuel pump and pump backing plate are the same as the SB chevy, look up say a 1976 350 chevy...

Have you removed the check valves???

There should be someone here that has actually done this, I would send them that pick and fill the paperwork out as a 2008. Usually GP lets the buyer decide what year it is if they don't know.

Sorry no attachment

I would be interested in what the data plate looks like, if you feel like sharing.

Welcome to the SS forums!!

Glad it looks like an easy fix, that was one of the connections I was talking about. The cable on the other side is the main ground, it goes to the starter, should even start better!!!

Another thing you can look at is the voltage from the 14V tap on the reg to ground and the rear battery when not running, they should be exactly the same..

The 14V post on the reg should be around 14.4 to ground, again not measured to any other post.

You should be looking from the terminals to ground, not to each other. completely ignore 2A for now, it is an ac signal that tells the PCB the engine is running. 568 is the alt exciter (IGN) terminal, it should be 27-28V or so to ground when running. If you are getting 28.8V at the alt and 26.7V...

I was looking at those type of bore scopes, I bought one and it required me to give the app. access to my media (photos) AND my contact list, this gives the owners of the app access to all your contact information and stored pictures, read selling out all your friends contact information...

It would be helpful to give the wire tag numbers/post ID on the connections you are quoting on the regulator, you seem to be seeing one more post than I remember. You should have much closer to 26V on the IGN/Sense (wire tag 5A) the larger of the two small posts on the reg. Check it again with...

That and the Allied electronics, Heathkit and many others..

Since you have the batteries out after you get them load tested put them in in the opposite position they were originally in, if they check out OK. It looks like the alt is under charging at 26.7V but get the batts tested first then go back and look at the charging voltage. Check the voltages at...

The way they are connected looks fine. Do you have a working trans light and if so is it off when the engine is off?