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I am sorry, I have obviously not explained this well enough, it has nothing to do with defroster vents, I am talking about this PORT that will be open dumping air into the passenger foot well because I do not have the ducting (nor do I want the ducting) that goes through the dog house, I was...

I am converting a M998, I do not have any of the ducting that goes through the doghouse, I am using the duct that attaches to the left end of the dash duct ass. for the drivers feet, I was just wondering what others did or do to plug the hole in the dash duct ass. just to the left of the evep...

That is what I thought, I was just miss understood before on the other thread, I am thinking of just epoxying a plastic door in that opening otherwise all the air will dump on the passenger side.

This reminds me of when I lived in Waco where they would get icy roads from time to time, I would wrap logging chain through the holes in the rear rims of my old Int. 1 ton tow truck and go out and make a killing, many were the hot shot 4WD guys that thought THEY were going to get paid for...

OK I am a little confused, I was thinking part #5 in the first picture connected to part number 8 in the second picture to carry air to the drivers feet, am I wrong?? I was wondering what to do with that port because I will be using the drivers side floor drop that mounts to the left side of...

I will start a new thread, did not mean to hijack this one.

How do you block the port in the cross dash AC duct that leads to the port on the right side in front of the doghouse?

IMHO the stress fracture was caused when that part was formed that is why it shows exposure on a portion of the fracture, it was likely formed too cold so it was doomed from the beginning.

I agree with 87cr250r, it looks like it had a fracture to begin with, it was probably incorrectly formed. pure junk for sure.

At least one of the vendors mentioned has no problem claiming his Chinese junk IS TACOM approved, or at least he used to.

All the trucks with the remote PS reservoir have a gear type PS pump, gear pumps make noise, that is why they are not used on civy vehicles.

The factory components have grease fittings, the military is big on greasing everything even though most people have no idea how to properly do it, most think you grease a ball joint until grease runs out which ruins most of them.

I don't see any prices.

You just jinxed yourself:eek: Kidding aside it is never easy

Those are X door strikers, this is what soft door strikers look like

Drive shafts, make sure when you remove the converter bolts that you gently pry the torque converter back towards the transmission to insure that the torque converter is not "stuck" to the crankshaft so it moves back with the transmission, also be mindful if the transmission tilts forward that...

To completely isolate the batteries it takes two switches, you can leave the one between the batteries and add one to the 12V leads that connect between the batteries

I don't see where the the switch would care if it was running 12V or 24V as long as you do not exceed the current rating

I can only say what I would do and I would pass on this one, that rust scares the heck out of me, I cannot imagine the only place that has serious corrosion would be the front suspension.

If you are talking about the switch that is in the water cross over I believe it is 1/2" NPT