Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Test the voltage with the truck running, the voltages you state must be with the truck off.
If they are close to even when running you may have a battery issue, if you do not have a battery load tester any auto parts store can test them.
Still go through the troubleshooting guide, if for example the batteries were hooked up backwards there are some diodes in the alt that could possibly be damaged and could fry the new reg right away, you don't need to search the web as the instructions are pretty straight forward.
The whole idea...
Interesting, I went just to see how much shipping would be and it would only allow me to proceed if I had my own shipper account, I have never seen that before when dealing with them.
It was rebuilt, a "new" engine would not have a rebuild tag.
Also a new engine would have the GEP decal on the left valve cover, it may or may not be a GEP or parts of a GEP and a GM, again not too important at this point.
POST MORE PICTURES!!
Before you install a new regulator go through the entire troubleshooting guide to make sure there is no problem with the alternator itself, 90% of all 200A problems are the reg but that 10% could cost you big dineros
It looks to have been rebuilt at Ft Hood, undoubtedly would be a 6.5L but may or may not be a GEP, it would take some time and effort to ID all the components like the heads etc as they could have used components from both the GEP and GM engine, but at this point that info does not have allot of...
Disconnect the ign. (sense) lead (wire tag 5A) unless you have the batteries disconnected the others should not be a problem.
Most likely all the smoke is already let out and the event is over.
Make sure the IGN (sense) lead you remove does not short against anything, tape it up for now.
Welcome to the SS forums!!!
That R1 is likely a 3 speed truck, if you want to drive on the streets (to include some highway driving) do yourself a BIG favor and hold out for an A2 truck with the 4 speed overdrive.
Just MHO
Left rear and top of engine block, between the oil pump drive and the #7 intake runner.
If it is a turbo motor it will have a stainless steel hose attached to the block with the sending unit on the end of the hose.
All of us old folks grew up "pumping" the brakes under limited traction conditions, then they came out with ABS which can be confused by pumping the brakes so they then taught everyone not to pump the brakes.
If you have lost traction and are sliding usually the best thing is to get the hell off...
The pressure output on the Saginaw (older style) pump is set by the regulator valve in the output fitting, there are kits to set it to a higher pressure, otherwise the pump itself is the same and can be picked up very reasonable if you are willing to change the pump cover (reservoir)
Edit in...
I am running a good set of dual horns on my DuraVee and they are 12V so they would pull more amps than a 24V set and I have not had any issues in 3 years.
I use them extensively every time I run the aprox 1/4 mile from the gate to the house to call ol Diggy Dog.
But horns are nasty beasts so you...
Can't you push it down from the top after removing the screws?
It is a sealed unit so you cannot take it apart.
You should have 12V all the time to one side.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.