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I think that's it. The Roosa Master was manufactured by the Hartford Machine Screw Company (now Stanadyne) https://i.ytimg.com/vi/veEONfhL3Uk/maxresdefault.jpg Hoping someone more knowledgeable than I can chime it.

Thanks. I would have broken out the voltmeter and checked but it's pouring down raining here today. Does that look like the correct shaped unit? I think there's a sheet metal cover over the assembly so I wasn't sure.

I searched for this and couldn't find a conclusive answer. Looks like the standard m1009 cutoff solenoid should be 24v. Is this a compatible unit? I'm looking for a spare to keep around. Fuel Shut Off Solenoid 26214 for Stanadyne Injection Pump Roosa Master 6.2 6.9 7.3 5.7 6.5 Link: Amazon...

I recently ordered an oil filter type centrifuge from the PA bio guy. Now I need to make it work. The supplier seems to recommend a 1/3-1/2 HP continuous duty motor and a carbonizer pump, which I understand is a vane type pump and used in the foodservice industry (think that's right). Like...

Looks sharp. Thanks for the tip on the parts. I'm considering tossing the entire assembly for a simple boot.

I'm finally getting around to cleaning up my M1009 interior. I removed the transfer case shift cover, which is cracked (looks like it caught a boot or such, a few times). I noticed that there are wires around the shifter, clipped, no light in the spot for the lightbulb, and the clear acrylic...

Hugely helpful. Thanks everyone. :coffee:

Ah! Makes sense as for some reason I don't have those slots and really wish that I did.

OK, so lack of response I'm interpreting as no one else has any ideas? Thinking this will go in a baggy somewhere as I'm about to reassemble the brakes. Thanks again everyone who looked.

One of these came with my drum brake spring replacement kit and also with the adjuster kit. It's just a generic K5 brake kit. Any idea what it's for? I can't find a match anywhere. Wondering if it's some kind of assembly-only retainer clip?? Thanks in advance, guys.

I pulled the diagram out of the maintenance manual (well viewed the pdf) and it doesn't indicate a lower adjuster. My belt won't even start on the pulley though. It makes no sense. Thinking it might be a quality control problem.

Hmmm, no. I only loosened the two bolts that hold the bottom of the alt secure. To be honest it's still 90 degrees here and I was being attacked by mosquitoes at the time and didn't see anything resembling an adjuster on the bottom. I'll try to find a diagram and look again. That could...

I was waiting for someone to suggest JB Weld :razz: Sadly it would probably work fine.

Hate to be "that guy" again, but I just tried to replace my driver's side with an O'Reilly 7575 (which is clearly marked 57.75 dia on the box) and that sucker won't slip over the alternator pulley at full inward adjustment. Any tips or tricks here? Thinking I'll have to exchange the two I...

I'm no expert but I think on some applications FP pushrods are hardened, at least on the ends. Maybe someone else knows. Hopefully it holds up fine for you.

First off, I love building FALs. Maybe block it off and get an electric lift pump? Hope I don't take too much heat for that suggestion. Sent from my VIVO XL using Tapatalk

If I blend it with some diesel oil is that worse than the diesel oil I blend on my gas engine? Sent from my VIVO XL using Tapatalk

Probably waaaay off the reservation now, but I just noticed this. Maybe it's been around forever but I had never seen it. (Yes I realize the ad says "NEW!")

You're right. I have a 383 I built years ago and almost never drive...at any rate it has a not-that-agressive but modern profile flat tappet cam on it. I've run diesel oil in it (Rotella) from day one because it used to and hopefully still does have the additional additives. The oil pressure...

Did a search. For solvents I see denatured alcohol but I think that's more for removing DOT 3/4. Other sites mention using anything that is mineral spirits based...so I'm thinking straight mineral spirits??? Will that trash seals and other components?