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Thanks, that gives me some options. I figure anything that can handle the current will work fine. That center one looks a *lot* like the imported ones. I suspect they are ubiquitous now. Sadly these are currently being sold as...
Thanks for the feedback. Those appear to be made overseas now and are listed on the "Bay" site that I can't link to as a comparable part for $15 each. Likely they are the same.
I'm asking because I'd rather buy two for the price of one and have a spare, and if someone has a Ford P/N that...
I got it started. I wanted to make sure nothing was binding so I took a wrench, socket, and extension and turned the engine maybe 5 degrees. After that it cranked right up. I guess maybe there's a bad spot on the flywheel? Perhaps that keeps the solenoid from contacting. Not sure.
Also I...
I wasn't thinking. I have a remote starter switch. That eliminates a lot of variables. I just went back there and hooked it up.
"Thunk. Thunk" - the solenoid is engaging. No motor. It's still in the high 80's here and the mosquitoes were chewing me up, so I'll investigate in the...
It was rebuilt by a recommended local shop a couple of months ago, so I'm hoping it hasn't already died. I had the guy rebuild two of them for me so I can certainly try the other if the batteries check out. I started the thing this weekend within 2-3 seconds so honestly none of it is making...
I charged the batteries up to about 12.8v each, tightened all the connections and tried again. Still nothing. I can feel the relay click although as I mentioned I was checking the voltage before.
It may be the weekend before I look more. I'm wondering if something crazy happened like the...
The starter was just rebuilt by a local guy who has a very good reputation. Of course there could still be a problem. I'll check the batteries and see what that buys me. I believe they are about 5 years old.
I just realized I have a power supply that will go up to 30V. I might test the...
I just went out in the "back 40" to try to start my m1009. It's 24v w./ doghead relay.
I got the glow plug thunk, then turned the key, solid starter relay thunk, but the starter wouldn't spin at all. We've had a long hot summer and it's been cooking some of my batteries, so I suspect that's...
Somehow lost my last reply. The "Nah" was in reference to it still being 24v. The relay didn't work. The fuse is good. I'll follow the technical manual and check the resistor, voltmeter, etc. Thanks.
For the belt I was able to find the Gates PN (posted above) by searching the site. It's a little quicker than searching the PDFs and then trying to cross reference the old part numbers.
Sorry, I was trying to get some stuff in shape quickly today - Atlanta is in panic mode due to this storm...
Well I found the Gen2 problem. The Alternator belt must have broken. I'm trying to find the correct length now. If anyone happens to know it would be a huge help. I'm assuming there's no match on that one for the Blazer equivalent.
NM: Passenger side alt- Gates# 7483; Dayco# 15490
Nah.
According to this thread, they are the same. I think I'm gonna check Autozone for one here in a minute.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?41110-Gen-2-and-Voltmeter-relays
I think I already checked that but I will again, but the total lack of a relay is an obvious problem.
Checked the pins and they look the same. So same 12v relay for the voltmeter too? Thanks.
I did find this on other threads. Looks like they are two different relays.
Bosch
12v
20/30A
0 332 204 151 (Bosch pn)
12033862 (GM pn)
5 blade terminal connection
Bosch part number 0332204151 interchanges with the NAPA part number
ECH AR272
My Voltmeter has been dead since I bought my truck a couple of months back. I know it worked when I test drove it. I took the plate with the relays and starter relay off and one of the relays is missing. I think someone was monkeying with them before I bought the car (it had all kinds of...
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