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Not long ago TWF had them for 135ea, I guess they did not sell well with W/S competing against them, they may go up now that W/S is at least temporarily out of the picture.

I sent him a message on his fleabay account (wigsplitter) and he said he was out and did not know when he was going to get more, trailworthy fab has some listed. Here is a link of a cut down runflat they sell, I guess that answers the question about what that other guy was selling, half of a 2...

I asked that seller about those, 3" obviously will not work alone as a beadlock, all I got back on 8-31 about a week after sending in the request was a form letter. "DISCLAIMER of WARRANTY and LIMITATION of LIABILITY:" I did not expect a straight answer from this guy but I was bored..

Remember to always disconnect the batteries when installing or removing the connectors on the PCB/EESS box. And as stated before if you bought an aftermarket switch that could also be your problem.

The regulator is the back aluminum portion of the alt, looks like this from the outside. There is usually no visible indication when it fries, since you stated it was overcharging at times it is likely is also toast but that is not what you are seeing right now, that is the terminals

Welcome to the SS forum!!

Welcome to the SS forum!!

There is also a lesson to be learned here, you should investigate any abnormalities in the electrical system before they turn into major damage.

That is not the regulator, that is the terminal cover, the terminals inside are burned up, this alt and wiring will need some major repair. I am not sure what is going on in front of the cover, looks like some arcing was going on outside the cover. Take the cover off and snap another picture...

When the hammer falls the vehicle is yours, I have had that conversation several times over the last 50 years or so.

It does not say aftermarket on the sale page but use their drop down tab for "products" then choose "aftermarket HMMWV parts" and there is your switch.

You still need to get the mater out and trace the issue rather than just swapping parts, you ether do or don't have 24V going in and out of the dimmer switch, if not look at the switch if you do look towards the lights. Again you need to do this with all the wires connected, use a probe with a...

Of course I had to go to the beach today, My first stop is the San Juan restaurant, I get there just as they open so I always get a good seat, an hour later and you are waiting for a table. They set this table up 4-5 times every morning to fill these little sauce containers for the to go...

Have you confirmed you have 24V at the dimmer switch with the wires plugged in? and that it is switching the output connections again with the wires plugged in?

Was the possibility you have a Chicom knockoff new switch discussed on your other thread?

Maybe this will help https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m998-hmmwv-v-belt-part-numbers.147066/

It would probably be better to buy a full set of alternator belts from one of the trusted dealers, it is next to impossible to get a matched set any other way. Unless you live in a large city where you can go from one auto parts dealer to another of the same name trying to get three belts with...

15A is the main power feed to the light switch, it gets its power from pin F of the body side connector of the PCB/EESS box. It should be hot all the time.

You have to be very careful adding any load to the dash lamps, if the dash lamps are switched to dim, first you will not have 24V to whatever you connected and second you can burn up the dim resistor in the light switch which can cause other damage inside the light switch.

I believe all 6.5L engines have the crank sending unit although not being used on the 3 speed, if not you can add one. After thinking about it I am running the aftermarket tach on the Detroit on 24V, there is no voltage on the tach sense line so I don't see where it would make any difference. If...