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Read the troubleshooting guide

You take the code and look up what it means on the very next page of the troubleshooting guide, page 61 and then that page tells you what page to go to to troubleshoot that code. They do not make a code reader for this application as it just is not necessary.

You might look at this, https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/how-to-bypass-pcb-i-am-aware-some-hmmwv-owners-have-done-it.182560/

Yes you can upgrade, look at this sticky for what temp sensor you need for any particular box. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/pcb-eess-smartstart-s3-i-pics-info.164930/ There is a member here Milcommoguy that builds manual boxes, or you can build one yourself if so inclined.

The original idea was the PCB Protection Control Box It disconnected everything that may get damaged if the batteries were to be connected backwards, that is why the 60A alt output was run through the PCB as everyone knows if you hook up the batteries backwards the alt will fry. SO the PCB...

There is a large wire running from the PCB to the batteries, it connects inside the PCB to the alt (5A) when in the run position,,,ORIGINALLY it was connected to the output of the 60A alternator trough the PCB to the batteries, and the #568 wire exited the 60A alt ign/sense. Actually the #5A and...

Well no you cannot leave the jumper in as it will drain the batteries and possibly damage the regulator. The 6ga wire should be marked 5A and that should go to the regulator ign/sense. terminal, there is a #568 that should be abandoned and a #2 that goes to the AC terminal. Huh, no relays in the...

Actually referring to link the OP listed in his first post, it should actually read "SPACER, BEADLOCK, RUNFLAT" He just conveniently shortened it to BEADLOCK..

All he has in stock is the 3' part of the 2 piece runflat, all others he shows are listed as obsolete.

Don't worry about any other "pins" unless you get a code, then check that circuit.

Sure, only limited by your imagination..

IIRC the lowest tire pressure with run flats, off road is 15PSI, or 10PSI under extreme conditions, I cannot find it in the -10 TM but read it somewhere, and of course the Government has all your money to buy new tires.

It is still a good idea to wait 90 seconds ANY time the run switch is turned off before turning it back on again, unplugging the glow plug controller is supposed to protect the glow plugs but I would not trust it. That goes for the entire time you own the HMMWV, ALWAYS wait 90 seconds after...

Start on page 60

You do not need a code reader, the instructions are in the trouble shooting guide I posted above.

If you have not read the codes how is it you think you need a TISS or a relay???? One BIG mistake many folks make is just start willy nilly replacing parts, this can and OFTEN leads to multiple issues, troubleshoot the problem and fix it right. EDIT, there are at least two dozen different things...

As wheelspinner said, you likely fried the run relay in the PCB/EESS box. Also one should always replace the batteries in pairs with the same size battery and battery build date for best results.

There is a relay (contactor) in the EESS/PCB box that is likely bad, try tapping on it lightly with a hammer with the run switch on, sometimes that will get the relay to kick in,,if that is the problem the heater fan should also not be working as it is also powered by that relay. The relay is...

Welcome to the SS forum!!

I am starting down this road again, I have some 24 bolt (even) wheels and BFGs on the DuraVee, they did fine for about 10K then started to bounce, I have 13K on them now,,, so I took the worst one to the tire shop to see about getting it balanced, I am using dynamic balancers and did not get the...