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well, my master cylinder seems to be the main problem right now. I have a replacement sitting here waiting for the snow to go away. Once that is replaced if all is well then I'm done. I inspected and lubed the air pack and can't find anything obviously wrong with it. Theres really only two...

Hi, I am possibly towing an M37 with my M35 to the MTA show this April using a towbar. We will also have tow lights on the back of the M37. The weight of the M37 is under 6,000 lbs so it fits well within the 10,000 lb capacity of the deuce. I was searching around and found this thread...

yes it is. When I say slow return, I am ignoring the springs tension and feeling when the pedeal mechanism actually touches the MC input shaft. I am going with a replacement unit.

I was having an issue with the brake pedal not coming back quickly. Also sometime it would feel like I was locked out the brakes and would have to pump them and let the pedal come all the way back before I would have brakes again. Once that happened the brakes would be great till a few pushes...

I am going to try the clean out MC trick today and see how that goes.

what's everyones opinion on the oil cooler plug being used vs. the lower or upper water pump plug?

This my be my next step before doing the rebuild: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/41984-deuce-brake-pedal-hard-but-no-brakes.html#post465756

Pictures of the air pack. Being that I am having issues with the pedal coming back properly, could there be an issue with the Master Cylinder and not the air pack?

I tell you what. I will go out and take a picture of it and you guys might be able to help me find the right rebuild kit for it then. Probably tomorrow since it is dark out already. Jake0147, the no brakes problem I am having has nothing to do with over heating. I am talking about <5 mph...

Hey, I have been having issues with being locked out of the brakes completely on my M35A2. April 2009 I bled the brakes and inspected the whole system. It would easily lock up all 10 tires if you wanted and under normal braking it didn't pull to one side. It has a nice straight line under...

Mine was DOA when I got the truck. I split the case open on it, flushed out all the gunk, lubed it, and put it back together. FYI, Proper alignment of the two rods that tighten the two parts together will insure the sleeve bearings are aligned properly to the motor shaft. After that it works...

BTW, I had to cut the 4 bumps at the bottom edges of the battery box to get them to sit flat. Only took like 5 -10 min with a dremel.

Hey, I did some searching around here and tried my luck at the local interstate battery distributor. They had "econo" batteries for 35 bucks each. I picked up 2 Group 31 batteries. To make them fit the box I had to remove 2 of the nut/bolts that hold the shield on the back of the battery box...

I couldn't find anything in the -20 that shows a place to lube it. Can you point me in the right direction?

Is there a portion of the TM that shows this procedure being done? Sounds like a good idea.

Little background info: 1970 M35A2 Kaiser-Jeep Purchased the Deuce in April 2009. Bled all the brakes lines, booster, and MC with DOT5. I keep a constant eye on the fluid levels. Brakes have been excellent on this truck ever since. After stopping on an incline yesterday I had no brakes...

27 years old

Nice Pictures Art and No. 2 Diesel

If anyone wants higher res photos of anything let me know.

movie of us going into the Lincoln Tunnel!