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You should also check/clean the common ground points, there is one behind the inst. panel that has a bolt that goes through the firewall with another cable attached on the outside of the fire wall on the same bolt, also there can be several on the back of the engine, on the heads etc.

The next thing I would do is disconnect the batteries, and remove and check both big "cannon" style plugs on the inside and outside of the EESS and the connectors on cables including the areas where the cables go into the connectors for signs of trouble, discolored pins heap dead burnt wires...

Don't replace anything until you have done some trouble shooting, the EESS box would be very high on the suspect list but not the only possible cause. Calling it a "run" relay may be slightly incorrect, it would probably be more correct to call it an "accessory" relay, power for starting and...

Why? it is the "run" relay. Just turn the run switch on, if your fans will not run even before you start the truck tap the box and see if they come one, if not that still does not guarantee the relay is not bad, if it does it pretty much confirms it. REMEMBER to always wait 90 seconds EVERY time...

It will be marked IGN or SENSE and the wire tag will be 5A, the relay/relays are IN the EESS/PCB box, hence the hammer suggestion

Check the voltage at the IGN. terminal on the regulator, I think you will find an answer there. The EESS box excites the alternator using the same relay it powers the fans with and it has likely failed.

I would contact a Stanadyne shop and ask what the spec differences are in the pumps, they came out with different spec numbers all the time even for the same engine, they can tell you all about fuel delivery and timing. The only real difference between the 6.2L and the 6.5L (detuned) is about...

It can take a while to cook that stuff out, it really needs to get a load on it to heat the exhaust up or it could smoke for a long time, if nothing else run it at a higher RPM using the high idle control under the dash.

Welcome to the forum!!! The pictures did not load, try again!!

Curious, did the old engine blow up? the reason I ask is your exhaust could be contaminated with oil, water or fuel.

I am assuming warming up a little bit is all you have done. Put 500-1000 miles on it before worrying too much about it.

That's right, TEXAS SUCKS so there is no need for Y'all to drag your sorry carcasses down here:cool:

If you were closer I would give you a couple tires better than that, the RF has a pattern that looks like it sat flat for a while, ideal recipe for a failure. SO SO tires are pretty cheap, that one does not even meet that spec.

Did you buy factory parts from a reputable dealer or aftermarket?

They look like the cheap aftermarket doors that use RV windows

I have too, I only bought a HMMWV about 4-5 years ago, I understand rules change, that is why everyone is advised to read them occasionally.

The bearing looks OK to me, not like it's spinning at 4000 RPM

Please re-read the rules, there is no rule against listing auction items. It is however strictly against the rules to try and "fix" any auction.

I am not sure if this is a change in policy or a private seller but the location is listed the same as the trucks, Anyway more doors the better!! I have seen an X door for sale every now and then but not complete "sets" looks like they could have paired them a little better...

Welcome to the forum! Are you still getting a trans light when you first switch on the ign.? will it go a mile at a time every time you restart, or does it get shorter each time?