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I use Murphy's tire soap, buy it 5 gal at a time. You can also take a huge tractor tire with a 3" or more gape all the around the bead and make it take air! If you scoop it up as the tire ejects it you can recover allot of it, will not hurt anything to do with a tire. GOOD STUFF!!

If you are weak with electronics and have the resources installing a manual box would take allot of the chance for failure out of the equation. You may find a member or two running them and may want to comment on how they like them.

The wait light does not indicate what is actually going on at the glow plugs, it is an idiot light. So you need to understand how the glow plug system works and monitor what is actually happening at the glow plugs. I prefer a test light because it is easy to see from multiple locations.

The "box" can fail, even to the point where it activates the glow plugs as soon as the batteries are connected, rare but can happen. So I would have a voltmeter or test light connected to one of the glow plugs, the wait light has nothing to do with what is actually happening at the glow plug...

Be very careful, first when replacing the glow plugs and again when testing the PCB box, it could have burned out the glow plugs to begin with.

There is a sticky near the top of this forum that will tell you what TSU goes with your PCB/EESS box. As suggested you can ohm out the glow plugs. Are all the other electrical devices working OK? Have you inspected/re-seated the PCB box connectors (inside and out)? Cleaning all the...

I am not sure if that is a direct reference to the order they are connected or not, do the wipers or squirters work? Does the truck have a roof?

You have to access the contacts under the windshield, you are likely also going to have to drop the windshield to work on the contacts to make them work the contacts are in the body directly under the windshield center post IIRC

I would assume the contacts are having issues and someone ran a wire outside the windshield to the WW motor. That list is only gets you in the ballpark, the WW motor is grounded through the instrument grounding system, that is why it is labeled 57, F is the branch going to the WW motor. The...

57F is the ground wire going to the WW motor via the contacts in the lower windshield. it should be connected to those contacts

Just in case you don't have it.

Have you read the codes? not all turn on the trans light.

OK so how much lately?

The ECV (I assume that is what you have) has a lower gear ratio so the engine is running at a higher RPM for any given speed so I would expect it to make more noise. My turbo diesel has a 6 speed 6L80 transmission with a double overdrive and the 2.56 gears so the fan is not very noticeable as I...

It also depends on your planes, if you have an ex-up armored truck and want to restore the armor you will need up-armored doors. These can be fit to any HMMWV except an up armored truck. At first glance that looks like a deal worth looking into.

Those are supplemental armor doors. I like them better than standard X doors as they are more rigid.

Has anyone had a HMMWV hauled from Yermo to S TX lately??

Actually that kit is on backorder, I would be interested in alternative sources if there is any. I found a few. https://www.rubberduck4x4.com/product/rear-brake-tool/?sku=RDH10-RBT-NF https://modmafia.com/product/economy-rear-brake-tool/ https://hummerh1parts.com/aa-h1-rbt.html...

The third belt for the pulley is the one you are using for your AC not the not closest one to the block. normally it would be 1 water pump and PS 2,3,4 for the ps pump water pump and alt.