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Wouldn't it be worth trying to put a correct belt on the pump you already have?

If you're hell bent on not using the stock pump, you could run a 12-Volt pump instead. Off of one battery, of course. But don't you think that these stock pumps can take a little heat? After all, some SEEs were deployed and used in much hotter weather than even Phoenix has to offer this week. I...

I'd leave the simple stock setup alone, just fix whatever minor things might need to be. Like the belt. If doing an electric over hydraulic conversion it's easy enough to buy a unit with the correct specs. And dry rot on the fittings are a new concept to me, if those are indeed what's rotted...

Wheels turning in the opposite direction is proof that the diff is not locked.

Running basically stock size Swampers on one, so no widening required. Did add an extra two inches for the wider Pit Bull tires, but that was also because I wanted the wider track, not just lower contact pressure.

Not being in the least concerned about mileage or handling, I really like the bias ply tires I use.

I'd say there's a good chance you will be lucky. My first SEE sprung a major leak on one not long after I got it. Got it fixed and left the other one alone. That was six or seven years ago.

So is this a supposedly running and fully functional SEE, or close to it? What the hell, I'm probably far from the ideal person for this, but PM me your phone number and I'll do my best to prep you for the inspection. If the timing works out, I may be willing to try helping while you're...

I never got the impression that the SEE was going to be driven. It just happens to be eight hours away by normal vehicle speed. Anyway, I wouldn't mind that drive to be able to see (and hear) what shape it's in. At least if it's a costly one.

I seriously doubt that you'd find an inspection service that would know what they're looking at, and what it's supposed to look like. Your best bet is probably to find a Steel Soldiers member that knows SEEs and bribe them into helping you. Or, get one at auction. They're fairly good at listing...

Do it. Then decide how simple it was. Or not.

I were on site and saw the complete tool set in the boxes, I would've padlocked them...and probably welded the doors shut, too. If then I didn't win the auction, I'd be out a padlock. No big deal.

Okay, I speed read the listing, but never saw any mention or photos of the tools. Got a full set with the first one I bought, but the other five had nothing. Except for the HME, which wasn't from GovPlanet. Forklift damage I've come to expect as standard issue on their auction vehicles. Most of...

Welcome! If your 'glass hood is like mine you'll need to cut two holes in it to make it lay down all the way. I used PVC caps to cover the holes, siliconed in place. Put early Jeep "hood latches" on the sides. They're actually meant to hold the windshield when folded down and has a 90 in the...

Now I feel fairly good about never having shifted my splitters out of Low, ever. If they're stuck, so be it.

Guess I've lucked out, too. Not that I remember how much they refunded me, but in one case a vehicle was dented and that was very hard to see in the photos. The other case was a supposedly never used snow blower. Well, paint doesn't disappear from the auger without actual usage. Both were...

Sorry, forgot all about taking a photo. Mine's minimalistic, and made to accept a "pin-on" trailer jack...because I have a few of those.

I posted photos of my simple home made stand in the owners thread some time ago. With some luck I'll remember to take a photo of it, as I saw it in the shed the other day.

If you have the time, basic gravity bleeding can work really well. Not that I've tried it on a Unimog, but have had great success with another application that's supposedly "impossible to bleed". Basically, fill up the master and give it a day or two.

I would concentrate on the brakes themselves, specifically the master cylinder. They have fully functional brakes without the air assist.