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IIRC 650-700 RPM, make sure the high idle control under the dash is fully in.

If you can no longer get codes then you might have a failing TCM, complex electronics many times fail after they get warm, can you pull codes when the TCM is cold?

Interesting, I have no experience with these but wonder if they are "heavy duty" enough for the HMMWV, these windows weigh several times the weight of a hotrod flat window. But again I have zero experience or have even seen these used in this application, but if the wiring is right then...

Sounds like you have defective devices or something is not wired correctly, where did you get the doors? are they new?

To further explain, every electrical device on a HMMWV, headlights, tail lights, WW motor, heater, horn etc has a return (ground) wire going back to a couple of centralized grounding points, the body is not used at ALL for grounding of anything on the HMMWV as it came from the factory and also...

What I was trying to say is the return path is as important as the feed path. :)

Are you SURE you are getting full voltage to the motors, where are the doors grounded? the body should never be used as a ground, you must ground to the motor/trans and best would of course be the shunt in the battery box.

If you plan on doing much highway driving most would advise to stay away from the three speed trucks. If all you are going to do is tool around town and off road it does not matter.

That would not be a good idea at all, not only are you over amping the motors and switches, you would be delivering much more torque to the regulator which could easily break something. The mods you need to do are very easy and basic, if you cannot figure it out pay someone to do it for you.

Does not sound like a rod to me, if it is the knock will change dramatically when given a little throttle. If it were a rod and if that is a 6.2L it would not be worth rebuilding anyway..

That is the sight glass, it is the way to monitor PS fluid level.

It looks like the alt is loose, but that "tinny" knock sounds like a collapsed lifter.

The bouncing of the volt meter may be the "after glow" that continues for 2-3 minuets after start up (the glow plugs are turning on and off to keep the temp up in the glow plugs but not burn them out), it does not seem apparent how the volt meter bouncing in time with the knock AND the smoke...

Welcome to the forum!!

It is hard to tell from your link but it sounds like you are cycling the run switch, if you turn off the run switch you MUST wait 90 seconds before cycling the switch back on or you will fry your glow plugs, that IS in the TMs

It is the fitting that has the nipple for the return hose on top of the IP, remove the hose and unscrew the nipple the check valve is in that nipple. Sometimes crap gets in the valve and ether prevents it from being a check valve or plugs it up, the ball should be glass so you should be able to...

There is a check valve in the return fitting on top of the IP, I would check that first, its main job is to prevent air from entering the IP allowing fuel to drain back to the tank. If only 1 hour causes trouble I would not think it would be a glow plug issue as the engine does not cool off...

Depends on what model HMMWV you have, the civy shafts are 10K, if you have an A2 or ECV etc (12K) they will not work

Wire number 54 should be plugged into the front connector on the IP, it should have 24V when the run switch is in the run position, you should be able to unplug it and when connected and the switch on you should hear a click from the injection pump. Test it with a volt meter while connected, use...

That is pretty cool, I have never seen one like that, the only ones I remember seeing at academy back in the 70s had two metal clips that snapped around the body of the flashlight.