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Those contactors fail all the time on 60A installations, pushing it to 100A would not be wise.

That was my point, not running the 100/200/300A charging current through the run relay/contactor. The instructions are very clear about abandoning the #568 wire and using the 5A for ign. sense in the 200A installation instructions. The 100A uses the same regulator and should be wired the same...

Here is how the 200A is wired, the 100A should be wired the same way, notice that 568 and 5A both go to the ign. sense terminal BUT you will notice the X on the 568 wire, that means it is not connected in this application. EDIT, what this chematic does not show is there should also be a heavy...

The relay that is burned up in your start box is easy enough to replace but of course you need to run the 100A output terminal directly to the batteries with a large enough wire to handle 100A

The ign. sense wire 568 and the old 60A charge wire 5A are both powered by the same relay, when converted to 100/200/400A alt. the wire 5A should go to ign. sense and the wire 568 should be taped off and abandoned. The reason the 5A is switched to ign. sense is because the wire 568 will not...

The reason the fan will not run is because the voltage going to the 60A alt (wire 5A) is controlled by the same relay the powers the fan and it is fried because the 100A alt has been charging the batteries through it.

The 60A alternators output went through a start box relay so there was no voltage on the output terminal unless the vehicle was in the run position. When it was converted to 100A there should have been a large wire run directly from the alternator output terminal to the batteries, the start box...

Re-seat all the connections after cleaning them with Deoxit and look for wear on the harness. It could also be a TCM issue not driving/reading the ESS correctly.

I agree with springer1981, it is extremely unlikely it is a reluctor ring issue, My best guess is also a wiring issue.

:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL: EVERYTHING is easier to do on a M151!! Yes it is entirely possible the valves have been removed, they are/were inline between the fuel tank steel lines and the steel lines going to the lift pump.

No they are not tripping as soon as they are turned on, it takes a while and must be on high beam, sorry if I flubbed that up. It is possible the breaker in his switch is just weak.

Since it is obviously a serious short (breaker tripping as soon as the lights are turned on) substituting the light switch would seem to be a logical step.

Welcome to the forum! The volt meter bouncing for a few minuets is called after glow, it is the EESS box pulsing the glow plugs on and off to keep them warm as the engine warms up a little and is perfectly normal, You have to put the meter on the neg of the rear battery and the positive of the...

Definitely some good reading!!

A stuck check valve gives the same symptoms as a bad lift pump, hopefully that is the issue, much easier to deal with, you just need some 3/8 and 5/16 fuel hose, of course don't get them crossed. Do remember if you pull the lift pump you have to pull the plate directly behind the pump and...

You do not need to bump, it included in the TMs sticky now

With the big tires and rims, a suspension lift and the lack of a fording intake it is obvious someone has been "customizing" that truck. I have seen thousands of pictures of Humvee's and have never seen one like this, so I would "assume" it is custom. (there is that word again):eek:

Welcome to the SS forum!!!

Is that one of her 5" guns on display??

Have you tried jumping the pos terminal to the start terminal on the starter?