Search results

Push the lever down, to float position. Or loosen the fittings on the cylinders. Then they can lock the loader in "drive position" with the small brackets at the cylinders. Now I will lose sleep trying to figure out how I could chain the loader in a raised position.

Got some more feed for (primarily) the FLUs.

Yeah, that's what I thought. In which case I'd try to find a brush hog that's made to run on about 20 gpm.

Jim, naturally I can't remember the max flow and pressure numbers of the rear hydraulics now, but 30 gpm sounds close. I use the rear circuit for a snow blower and ran "extension hoses" from the backhoe's connections to the loader. It's somewhat described in this thread if you go back two...

Well, first you'll need to take a complete section off. Then I found that shortening the inside by about a foot makes them fit somewhat well...except that it can't be done by shortening it in only two places. If memory serves me, I now have five places with three links eliminated and one with...

Moving snow seems to be a forte of Unimogs. Which reminds me, I need to install the snow blower on the SEE while the weather is nice. But to give you an idea, I have dented the fenders and been unable to open the door after pushing through wet snow with a SEE's loader. And that was using only...

Pristine ones, no doubt.

As SeeNebraska pointed out, winter is coming. So I finally got around to start fitting the meaningful but overly large tire chains I bought from a forum member at least a year ago. Shortening ladder chains to fit is easy, this type takes a bit more thinking I've noticed.

From the opposite end of the spectrum, I got my second SEE (intended to be a parts car) directly from GP for $5,200 if memory serves me. Delivery was another $1,600 or so, and it didn't come with anything but the ripper. My first one came with all the tools, and then some, but so far I've only...

I did take a quick look around for switches today, and there are two I could try. Although, if mounted correctly they're already in the off position. Good thinking on the solenoids. I'll take a peek in that area, maybe disconnect the wire(s) for now. Unfortunately the swivels are so bad that...

Right you are. Too much going on to remember that little detail about the front pump. Anyway, it's been deadheading so far (not that I've had it running much) so it'll hopefully be fine with a bit more. That's one reason I want it back in the garage; to figure out the system. There may well be...

Finally got to use the Summer SEE again, but to dig yet another 14'x4'x10' hole (aka a grave). Getting better at it as this was number five. One outrigger didn't want to come back up (lever wouldn't move enough) and for a while the backhoe was very low on power. To the point that the other...

Perfect timing, P&P! I bought plugs for my hoses (-8 JIC if memory serves me) and installed them two days ago, so that I could dig into the swivels. In my case, not only do the swivels leak, but on this particular FLU (the only one that leaks, of course) there's no way to turn the PTO off, so...

A decent parts store should have air system anti freeze. Is it needed? I don't know. Been running on SEE without (stole the parts to put in another one) and no issues so far. Then again, last winter really wasn't one here, so it never got below 0.

It's hard to argue the dirt simple and reliable function of a lever. Besides, the switch could then be made to engage the diffs separately.

I saw that earlier, but didn't know that the glass was still intact. The only way I can think of for that to happen id by exceeding the gauge's range...by quite a bit. Let's hope it was done with compressed air, not when the gauge was installed on the tank.

I think they'd be low on power with a good header on the engine, but be that as it may; while you've been underneath servicing things, did you happen to notice if the rear track bars have forklift damage, too? Those are far more important than the exhaust, I think.

That reminds me; when you do get it running, resist the temptation to run the backhoe or loader before you clean off the exposed parts of the cylinders' rods, and lubed the seals a bit.

I would concentrate on checking/getting the engine started. That would allow finding out if the clutch, transmission. etc. works. If that all seems to function well, I'd continue with fixing the essentials, and eventually the rest. Okay, that's not entirely true. Maybe 20 years ago I would've...

Just started looking into this issue yesterday, so not up on manufacturer and such yet. But if your assembly is in good shape and at a reasonable price, I'm interested.