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The TC shift pattern will be different, the NP241 is a part time TC, and can be electric or manual shift, of course you will need a driver side drop.

You will likely also need a custom modified cross member, you may have to modify the drive shafts and the TC shift pattern will probably be incorrectly marked on the OEM shifter, also you will probably not have a working speedometer unless you can crack the TC and find the correct components for...

Snap a picture of the fan.

Also what condition are the cooler fins in?

One thing to check is if you have the correct fan, make sure it is not blowing forward, next I would try a thermostat, then having the radiator cleaned. And as Autonomy suggested try and look between the cooler and radiator and see if there is any debris in there.

Coming up to temp in 4-5 miles is pretty normal for my Detroit.

Yes a wiring diagram is a must when troubleshooting, one thing is to do what was suggested by the first person answering your post. Pull the headlight out of the bucket, start on the engine side of the headlight bucket and make sure all the wire numbers match from the harness to the bucket leads...

Are you sure you are in park or neutral?

If one of the headlights is working correctly and the other one is not, I would not think it is the light switch or the dimmer switch but an issue out on the front end where the circuits split and or a headlight issue.

Have you checked to see if the headlight is connected correctly? they can also be "crossed" on the back of the headlight shell.

And a third one for the cold advance.

I do not see how a thermostat being stuck open could be your problem, your indicated temp is normal

There are tons of never armored trucks selling without any doors, many of those may or may not have had X doors to begin with but still no doors

I was told it was because they are Kevlar which puts them into the "armor" category. But I have seem trucks sell with the doors and the doors themselves at auction so........

If you cannot match the bleeder treads you can just dead head the fan port of the valve into a gauge, all you need there is a 3/8 hose barb to whatever your gauge requires.

As long as you do not have issues with the compressor screws there is no real need to replace them.

It definitely controls the pressure to the clutch, it creates a controlled back pressure on the return line.

You of course want to replace all those bolts.

I will look and see if I can find the specs, on "regular" steel steel connections you can look up the fastener specification, thread size/count/grade. This would be OK for the exhaust elbow. IIRC it is an M8 bolt. Very good guide for items that the specs are hard to find. EDIT, you would reduce...

You will not see any vacuum, at least I don't, maybe if your air filter is clogged which will never happen.