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Unplug one the wires to the temp switch, it is a failsafe system, the fan should come on. EDIT, if the fan comes on ether the switch is bad or you are not getting it hot enough, if the fan does not come on look at the TDM module.

It is loose somewhere, check for missing/loose bolts to the front of the block.

Welcome to the forum!!! I have no idea what we are looking at.

Welcome to the forum! Are you having issues with your fan?

Pull the wire off of the brake equalizer block next to the master cylinder and see if the light goes out, an imbalanced brake circuit can also cause a light. It will also be helpful to you to download and read the operator manual...

Download the TM with the schematic then you will have the wire numbers you need, you could also use the original light to make a "cheat sheet" https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/hmmwv-technical-manuals-if-you-need-it-its-here.189594/

You should be able to distinguish what light it what by looking at it, of course the brake/turn will be the brightest followed by the tail/parking light, ETC.

The 5th wire is the ground unlike the original that grounded through the mount, put the ground to the neg of a battery and all of the other wires to positive one at a time, if all functions do not work the light is bad.

I did not think the hole out of the pre-cup was big enough to lose the broken piece into the cylinder, unless you drove it through the pre-cup.

Will it accept the FSI "tools" Unlike you though I do not need one on a daily basis, the battery would be dead or just no good when I needed it.

Again not much to report, I had an accident in the shop that is going to pretty much side line me for the next 5-6 weeks. I did get the wife to help me install a fuel pressure regulator today and the major fuel issues went away, motor runs nice, idles smoothly. It is not perfect but hopefully...

Common wisdom is 95% of 200A alternator problems is regulator related.

HOKUM

I wonder if anyone repairs these? I have several manual rivet guns including a very large one that pulls 1/4" steel rivets with ease but occasionally I need a more compact one.

I will bet it was to remove any residual pressure which would keep you from separating the coupling, any air trapped at the cadillac valve would easily be pushed through the valve as it activated and de activated under normal operation, would be the least necessary location for a "trapped air"...

OK, thanks!! maybe those were installed when they went to the coupling at the clutch, to remove any residual pressure which would prevent seperating the coupling.

What everyone is calling a bleeder?, is it possible it is actually a diag. port to check the pressure?, As Coug said dead head systems usually bleed themselves.

We posted at almost the exact same time :ROFLMAO:

I wonder what changed? none of the early trucks had bleeder valves, I have replaced hoses and never had a reason to bleed the system.

That is the correct fan, would not have been the first time one showed up with the wrong fan.