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I installed the engine I did not install the push rods/rockers as I wanted to get oil pressure up a couple times before putting the lifters in contact with the cam, it has a special lube on it and the cam manufacturer recommends "very little cranking" before firing it up and going immediately to...

There is very little in the way of a seal there, I would expect any GM turbo with any time on it to leak like that, oil in the intake is NORMAL, it comes from the crankcase vent system not the turbo, but by all means replace the cartridge, the Chicom ones are plentiful and cheap, under $200...

Do you have a link to that test, I don't think that is a valid test.

The 1097A1 was a heavy variant, when they rebuilt them only the 6.5L and the NP242 were available, all the rest is stock A1 from what I can see.

That is the only place oil can get out of the turbo, can you explain the "cartridge leak test"? Also have you made sure the turbo bolts are tight?

I am not a big fan of DEX VI, I use DEX III in my transmissions and steering. I change the gear hub and diff oil every year so I can see any indication of trouble on the magnetic plugs so I just use a good GL-5 gear lube. The exception is the 6L80 in the Detroit, the builder requires a full...

Synthetic motor oil is just a waste of money in a HMMWV, the beauty of synthetic oil is extended oil changes, well that is out the window with the Detroit, they are "dirty" engines and contaminate the oil so you cannot extend the oil change interval. again just a waste of money.

ATF is the way to go, cannot say that PS fluid causes problems but just like anything mixing fluid types is usually not a good idea so a good flush with the new fluid is a must. I like many others use and recommend DEX III over DEX VI but many do use DEX VI, kinda a Mary Ann VS Ginger thing...

Tons of them have RTV on them trying to seal them, waste of time and effort IMHO

I am curious, maybe someone can comment on if the frame mounting holes are the same, if so there is really no need unless you are truly armored (read heavy) to have the Shepard steering gear, tons of Saginaw boxes out there

I would try and drag it as far as I could, could you move it a couple hundred yards? probably but why tempt the fates. Curious what fluid if any you put in the PS? Also never hold the steering at lock one way or the other that does spike the pressure and heat.

Just cuz it's called solid state does not necessarily make it so. Take the 24V coil and connect it with jumper leads to 24v, if it makes a spark while connecting/disconnecting the coil side it is not solid state.

So it is not a SS relay, just a sealed relay (redundant) with a 24V coil

Here is a handy flow schematic, just take the winch out, the pressure hose goes straight from the hydro-boost to the steering gear.

Well you gota figure out where the fluid is going, could be any number of things, hopefully just a hose :)

You could possibly drive without power assist but you do not want to, no power brakes ether and you will damage the pump if run without fluid.

Keep us posted.

If it is solid state I would not try that.

If it were me I would just install another relay and not mess with the TCM circuit.

Yes, if there is no UOC applied then it is the same for all variants covered by that TM. tie rod ends are one example.